Punta Martiño Lighthouse on the northern tip of the island

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The Canary Islands are a regular choice for us to spend our end-of-winter holidays. They’re always warm in February and, at 4 hours flight time, they’re about as far as we want to travel for a one week trip.

Our goal for these trips is always resting over adventure and I’ve learned not to get over-excited about ticking off everything on the islands. We’ve missed most of the highest points either due to weather or length of walk. Due to this we’ve managed to successfully miss the highest points on Tenerife, Lanzarote and La Gomera. We did manage to get to the Gran Canaria summit although that’s only the highest accessible point very close to the actual high point.

So, on our week in Fuerteventura I had written off the high point even before we left the UK. Pico de la Zarza is not a very difficult hike but it was too long and too hot for our relaxing break. I added it to the list of the other Canary High Points to cover later on a different type of trip at at a different time of year.

My need for high point bagging ended up being satisfied by a trip to a small island just off the north coast of Fuerteventura. Isla de Lobos is a 5k / 15 minute ferry ride from Corralejo harbour. It has well-marked hiking trails totaling 10k and an out-and-back ascent of Montaña La Caldera.

We took the 12:30 foot ferry run by Naviera Nortour. By the time all the tourists had stopped their faffing on and off the boat it was 13:00 before we started the hike. This gave us a full 3 hours on the island before needing to be back at 16:00 for the 16:15 return ferry.

We had read on other blogs that the 10k circuit takes 2 and a quarter hours to complete. That would be a very fast pace, especially if including the high point. We walked at a steady pace, stopped for lunch 15 minutes at the lighthouse and took the full 3 hours.

We took the anticlockwise route having seen a recommendation in another blog post that this would be the less popular route. Everyone with us that day must have read the same post as most people were going the same was as us.

A few minutes later east of the ferry pier is El Puertito where there’s a pretty bay and a restaurant. We passed through it quickly as it was already crowded. From there we took a side route from the main path that takes in Las Lagunitas.

The paths around the island are well maintained and mostly flat. When you get to the lighthouse be prepared for a short climb up the hill. You’re now roughly half way into the walk and a good place for photos and a rest.

After the lighthouse return to the base and take the right hand path, now on GR131. After 3.5 km you’ll reach the spur to climb the hill to the high point. If you don’t fancy it you can carry straight on back to the ferry pier.

The weather had changed for the second half of our walk and we had some light rain on the approach. As we started ascending the rain stopped and some heavy wind started. Timea got to around 100m of elevation and decided that was enough for her as she didn’t want to be blown off back to the mainland.

I continued the remaining 10 mins to the summit to reach the Trig Pillar, get a few photos and tried not to be blown off. Even that day there were great views to both Fuerteventura and Lanzarote but I didn’t hang around for long to admire them.

From the path junction to the Montaña it’s another 20 minutes walk back to the ferry pier.

With a new island and a high point bagged I was now happy to head back to the hotel to relax for the rest of the trip.

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The Hike

Start / Finish: Lobos Island Ferry Pier
Distance: 9.9 km (6.1 miles)
Elevation Change: +/- 128m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): GR131 Camino Natural de Fuerteventura
Cafe / pub on route: Chiringuito Lobos Antoñito El Farero, 600m from the Ferry Pier
Guidebook: Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura (Cicerone)
Links: Fuerteventura, Corralejo, Lobos Island

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Montaña La Caldera

Also known as: Caldera de Lobos
Significance: Highest point on Isla de Lobos
Elevation: 127m (although listed as 124m on Peakbagger)
Date “climbed”: February 23rd 2024
Coordinates: 28° 45' 6'' N, 13° 49' 49'' W
Links: Peakbagger

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Isla de Lobos from above

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From Walk 2: Swyncombe and Park Corner

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This is part of a series of short circular walks in the Chilterns with 3 separate routes all starting from St Botolph's Church, Swyncombe in Oxfordshire. The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

Each of the 3 walks touches combinations of sections of the Shakespeare’s Way, The Chiltern Way and The Ridgeway. If you’re following The Shakespeare’s Way series of walks through the Chilterns this post contains sections 2 and 3 taking you from The Ridgeway near Watlington to just south of Russell’s Water.

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Details for All Routes:

Start & Finish: St Botolph's Church, Swyncombe, Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, RG9 6EA
Map: OS Explorer Map (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Links: Swyncombe, Ewelme

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Route 1: Swyncombe and The North

Distance: 8.1 km (5 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 176m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Ridgeway, The Chiltern Way, Shakespeare’s Way
Other routes touched (cycle): Chiltern Cycle Route
Pubs / Cafes on route: None

From St Botolph's Church follow The Ridgeway in a northerly direction for 3.7 km to meet the junction with the Shakespeare’s Way at Ridge Farm. Take a right to follow the Shakespeare’s Way for 3 km to Cookley Green. At Cookley Green take a right onto Church Lane to follow The Chiltern Way back to the start at St Botolph's Church.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (north): Britwell Salome and Lower Warren
Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (south): Swyncombe & Park Corner (scroll down)

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Route 2: Swyncombe and Park Corner

Distance: 9.9 km (6.2 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 199m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Ridgeway, The Chiltern Way, Shakespeare’s Way
Other routes touched (cycle): Chiltern Cycle Route
Pubs / Cafes on route: None

From the southern side of St Botolph's Church follow The Chiltern Way in an easterly direction for 2.7 km to the Chiltern Way/Shakespeare’s Way path junction just west of Russell’s Water. Continue south for 800m to meet another Chiltern Way/Shakespeare’s Way path junction just west of the Five Horseshoes pub. Take a right to follow The Chiltern Way in a westerly direction for 3.9 km, passing through Park Corner, to reach The Ridgeway. Take a right onto The Ridgeway to follow it in a northerly direction back to the start at St Botolph's Church.

Shakespeare’s Way Previous Section (north): Swyncombe & The North (scroll up)
Shakespeare’s Way Next Section (south): Nettlebed, Park Corner and Maidensgrove

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Route 3: Swyncombe and Ewelme

Distance: 10.7 km (6.6 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 232m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Ridgeway, The Chiltern Way
Other routes touched (cycle): Chiltern Cycle Route
OS Trig Pillar: TP4072 - Huntingland
Pubs / Cafes on route: None

From St Botolph's Church follow The Ridgeway in a south-westerly direction for 1.5 km to a path junction before the manor house at Ewelme Park. Take a right on to this path heading north-west for 1 km to meet The Chiltern Way at a smelly pig-farm. Take a right to follow The Chiltern Way in a north-westerly direction to the outskirts of Ewelme village. Continue following The Chiltern Way for as it curves round to following an easterly direction connecting with The Ridgeway at Swyncombe Downs. Take a right to follow The Ridgeway (staying on The Chiltern Way too) back to the start at St Botolph's Church.

For OS Trig Pillar baggers, you can visit the Huntingland Trig Pillar which is just off The Chiltern Way at 7.2 km into this route. It’s in a field and easily accessible but best to visit in the winter when there’s no crops.

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Hanging Hill summit is by the transmitter at Avon Fire and Rescue Service Southwest Command Development Centre

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Start & Finish: Layby near Sir Bevil Grenville's Monument, Cotswold Way, Bath, BA1 9DD
Distance: 2.2 km (1.4 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 28m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Cotswolds Way
Other routes touched (cycle): N/A
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: Bristol & Bath Map | Keynsham & Marshfield | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 155
Links: Bevil Granville, Sir Bevil Grenville's Monument, Battle of Lansdowne

Significance: High Point for the Unitary Authority of South Gloucestershire
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Beacon Batch
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Niver Hill
Historic County: Gloucestershire (of which Cleeve Hill is the County Top).
Elevation: 237m
Date “climbed”: December 30th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 25' 51'' N, 2° 24' 31'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP3599 - Hanging Hill
Links: Wikipedia (South Gloucestershire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Hanging Hill is the High Point of the Unitary Authority of South Gloucestershire which was created after the abolition of the Ceremonial County of Avon. Having bagged 2 of of the 4 high points of the ex-Avon Unitary Authorities on a trip to the Mendips I was keen to get this one on the way back home. The 4th one, Dundry Hill, will have to wait for a future trip.

This high point can be bagged either on a short out-and-back or, as I did, a short circular. There’s free but limited parking off for the Sir Bevil Grenville's Monument on the road leading north from Landsdown. There were a lot of cars even on a cold winter day when when we arrived.

From the parking space follow the Cotswolds Way in a westerly direction along Beeches Cottages Road to the Avon Fire and Rescue Centre. The actual highpoint is in the grounds of the Fire and Rescue Centre, presumably under the large transmitter. The Centre was closed when I was there but you can get very close to it as the Cotswolds Way runs along side the perimeter fence.

Continue along the Cotswolds Way for another 500m to reach the Hanging Hill Trig Pillar. Along the way you’ll pass flags and information boards marking the site of the Battle of Lansdowne in 1643. After the Trig Pillar continue along the Cotswolds Way as it takes a sharp turn to the left now heading in a south/south-easterly direction. After another 500m you’ll reach the end of the field and the edge of some woods where you can leave the Cotswolds Way following a path through the woods back towards the main road. Take the path that cuts diagonally across the field heading north back to the parking area.

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Looking back to the mainland from the Brean Down Trig Pillar

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Start & Finish: National Trust Brean Down Car Park, 2 Brean Down Road, Brean, Burnham-on-Sea TA8 2RS
Distance: 3 km (1.9 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 84m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): England Coast Path
Other routes touched (cycle): N/A
OS Trig Pillar: TP1608 - Brean Down
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Brean Down National Trust, at start and end.
Map: Weston-super-Mare & Bleadon Hill Map | Burnham-on-Sea & Clevedon | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Active Map 153
Links: Brean Down, Brean Down National Trust, Hillbagging, Brean Down Fort

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We visited the Brean Down Trig Pillar near the end of a short break in the Mendips between Christmas and New Year. The weather was terrible but we managed to bag a few high points and visit a few of the sea-side towns in the area. We arrived at the Brean Down National Trust car-park just as a downpour was starting. It cleared up quickly and we saw on the weather app that we had a dry spot of around 30 minutes before the rain came again. We took a risk to see if we could get to the Trig Pillar before the rain came back.

The path to the Trig Pillar starts at the National Trust cafe and ascends steeply to the top of the ridge up some stone steps. At the top of the steps take a left to follow the well-marked path that leads to the end of the peninsula. There’s a great views from 3 sides and we were treated to a vivid double rainbow to the north as a rainstorm passed by and over Weston-Super-Mare.

At the Trig Pillar I was keen to continue the walk to the end of the peninsula to visit the old fort. Timi sensibly called me back as our dry weather window was rapidly closing and we could see the storm clouds coming toward us. We retraced our steps back to the National Trust cafe just as the rain started again.

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Trig Pillar at the summit of Beacon Batch

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The County of Avon existed as a Ceremonial County between 1974 and 1996. It was comprised of parts of the former Historic Counties of Gloucestershire and Somerset and then, on abolition, split into 4 new Unitary Authorities. The high point of the County of Avon was Niver Hill North Top at 264m which is now the high point of the Unitary Authority of Bath and North East Somerset.

This post features 3 high points closely located to Blagdon Lake in the Mendips AONB:

• Niver Hill: the high point of the former Ceremonial County of Avon and the present-day Unitary Authority of Bath and North East Somerset

• Blagdon Hill Farm: the high point of the present-day Unitary Authority of North Somerset

• Beacon Batch: the high point of the Mendips AONB

All three high points could be reached on a long walk combining the Limestone Link, Mendips Way, Monarch’s Way and The Butcombe Trail, however we split it into 2 shorter walks with a 10 minute drive between them. First up was a short circular walk taking in Beacon Batch and Blagdon Hill.

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Beacon Batch and Blagdon Hill Farm Circular Walk

Start & Finish: Burrington Ham Car Park, Burrington Combe, Bristol, BS40 7TZ
Distance: 7.1 km (4.4 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 149m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Limestone Link, The Butcombe Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: Cheddar Gorge & Mendip Hills West Map | Wells & Glastonbury | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 141
Links: Mendips Hills National Landscape, Mendip Hills (Wikipedia), Burrington Ham (Camp)

The obvious place to start this walk is the small parking area at Burrnington Ham on the north side of Burrington Combe road. If you’re really short on time and not bothered about Balgdon Hill Farm you can bag Beacon Batch on a 2.4km out-and-back from the parking area.

For the full 7.1 km circular walk take the footpath on the north-east side of the parking area that follows the Limestone Link to the east connecting with Luvers Lane. At the end of Luvers Lane take a right onto Two Trees (lane). Continue along Two Trees, heading south-east for around 600m and take a left onto Leaze Lane. The Blagdon Hill Farm High Point is 250m along this lane. There’s nothing to mark the summit but you get great views to the north over Blagdon Lake.

Continue east along Leaze Lane to the entrance of the farm and take the path on the right that heads south along field edges to the B3134 Broad Road. Take a right to follow Broad Road for ~300 metres then carefully cross over to the footpath on the south side of the road. Be very careful on this bit as it’s a busy road with no pavement but there is a small grass margin to avoid being on the road with the cars.

Follow the path as it zig-zags through fields in a southerly direction for just under 1 km to meet Rains Batch Road and the Butcombe Trail. Take a right and follow the road to the Wireless Station. Continue along the Butcombe Trail for another 1 km to the edge of the open space surrounding the Beacon Batch summit. Leave the Butcombe Trail to take a path heading north, north-west to the Trig Pillar marking the Mendips high point.

After the Trig Pillar take a northerly path the descend back down to the car park.

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Blagdon Hill Farm

Significance: High Point for the Unitary Authority of North Somerset
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Beacon Batch
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Beacon Batch
Historic County: Somerset (of which Dunkery Beacon is the County Top). Was also part of the former Ceremonial County of Avon (of which Niver Hill was the County Top)
Elevation: 242m
Date “climbed”: December 28th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 19' 1'' N, 2° 42' 47'' W
Links: Wikipedia (North Somerset), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Beacon Batch

Also known as: Black Down
Significance: High Point for The Mendips AONB
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: The Wrekin (according to Wikipedia although it seems unlikely)
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Lydeard Hill
Historic County: Somerset (of which Dunkery Beacon is the County Top)
Elevation: 325m
Date “climbed”: December 28th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 18' 44'' N, 2° 44' 27'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP1472 - Blagdon
Links: Wikipedia (Mendip Hills, Black Down), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Niver Hill North Top Out-and-back Walk

Start & Finish: Forestry England East Harptree Car Park, East Harptree, BS40 6DA
Distance: 2 km (1.2 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 27m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Monarch’s Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: Cheddar Gorge & Mendip Hills West Map | Wells & Glastonbury | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 141

Following the Beacon Batch and Blagdon Hill Farm walk it’s a 10 minute drive to the start of this shorter walk starting from the Harptree Car Park. From the car park entrance take a left onto Smitham Hill, then first right onto Nettwood Lane. Continue along Nettwood Lane until the farm entrance, then along the footpath, following the Monarch’s Way, along the edge of the field. The unmarked high point is in the south-eastern corner of this first field at the start of a row of trees. The boundary between Bath and Northeast Somerset and the County of Somerset runs along the field edge that you have just followed then takes a right angle following the hedge-line north towards the lake.

Retrace your steps back to the car park.

Niver Hill North Top

Significance: High Point for the Unitary Authority of Bath and North East Somerset
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Niver Hill
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Niver Hill
Historic County: Somerset (of which Dunkery Beacon is the County Top)
Elevation: 264m
Date “climbed”: December 28th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 16' 56'' N, 2° 37' 31'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Bath and North East Somerset), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Significance: Parent Peak of Betsom’s Hill (Kent County Top) and Westerham Heights (Greater London High Point), Highest Point of the North Downs
Member of: Marylins
Parent Peak: Leith Hill
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Leith Hill
Historic County: Surrey
Elevation: 270m
Date “climbed”: December 3rd 2023
Coordinates: 51° 16' 44'' N, 0° 0' 45'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP1536 - Botley Hill
Map: Sevenoaks & Tonbridge Map | Royal Tunbridge Wells & Westerham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 147
Links:
- Wikipedia (Botley Hill, North Downs)
- Peakbagger (at Water Tower, at Trig Pillar)
- Hillbagging (at Water Tower, at Trig Pillar)

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I had only discovered Botley Hill recently when researching County Tops and routes in the area. It’s the high point of the North Downs, but doesn’t make it into any lists as the North Downs isn’t an AONB, National Park or similar. It’s taller than the nearby high points of Kent and Greater London, but is in Surrey so misses out to the 5m higher Leith Hill for the County Top. It’s a must-do though for high-point completists and more more interesting than both Betsom’s Hill and Westerham Heights, the high points of Kent and Greater London.

The Botley Hill summit is next to a water tower and transmitter and easily accessible by road. It’s also on the Vanguard Way, 1km north of its junction with the North Downs Way so can be bagged on a diversion from both. We bagged it on the same day as walking a section of the North Downs Way but drove to the Botley Hill summit after completing the walk.

The water tower summit isn’t the only significant point on the hill. There’s an OS Trig Pillar approximately 1 km to the east which was once considered to be the hill summit but is actually ~1m lower. We also visited this one as a drive-by after our North Downs Way walk.

Source: Legislation.gov.uk

For the absolute completists there’s also Botley Hill Northeast Slope. Peter Stone’s Peakbagger entry from March 2012 describes it as: “A 255 m slope feature inside a Reptile Zoo or behind adjacent Waylands House. Got as close as I could for a bona fide claim. However, perhaps a bit pointless and of historic interest only as this place is no longer the highpoint of Greater London since a boundary change ceded it to Surrey in 1993. Greater London's high point is now Westerham Heights, 245 m, a few km to the E and very close to Kent's top” .

The transfer between Bromley in Greater London and Surrey was actually on April 1st 1994, although the legislation had 1993 in the name. More information can be found in this article on legislation.gov.uk. The map to the right shows the southern tip of Bromley, previously the Greater London High Point, which moved to Surrey with this legislation.

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The Botley Hill Family

Botley Hill is the Parent Peak to:
- Botley Hill Trig Pillar and Botley Hill Northeast Slope
- Betsom’s Hill, the County Top of Kent
- Toy's Hill, the High Point of the Kent Downs AONB
- Westerham Heights, the High Point of Greater London and the London Borough of Bromley
- All Greater London Borough High Points south of the Thames plus Heston The Vale (Hounslow)

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Coccolith, an artwork by INSTAR, near the Titsey Brewery on the eastern edge of the Surrey Hills AONB

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Start: Gangers Hill Car Park, Gangers Hill, Woldingham, Godstone, CR3 7AD
Finish: The Velo Barn, Unit 1, Betsoms Farm, Pilgrims Way, Westerham TN16 2DS
Distance: 9.1 km (5.6 miles)
Elevation change: +161m / -216m. Net -55m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Tandridge Border Path, Woldringham Countryside Walk, Vanguard Way, Greenwich Meridian Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): Prime Meridian Cycle Route
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Velo Barn at the end of the route
OS Trig Pilllar: TP1536 - Botley Hill
Maps:
- Dorking, Box Hill & Reigate Map | Leatherhead & Caterham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 146
- Sevenoaks & Tonbridge Map | Royal Tunbridge Wells & Westerham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 147
Guidebook: The North Downs Way National Trail from Farnham to Dover (Cicerone)
Links: Marden Park, Oxted Downs, Titsey Place

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This is the seventh of a series of short point-to-point walks along the North Downs Way. The full trail is a long distance path stretching from Farnham in Surrey to Dover in Kent. Our walks took in short sections of 10 km to 13 km which we did with a friend over the course of a couple of years when our schedules coincided. The North Downs Way is well sign-posted however I highly recommend taking a map or GPX route to keep you on track. The Cicerone book on the trail is a great guide to the points of interest along the way.

For this section we left one car at the end of the walk near the Velo Barn on Westerham Hill and another at the start at Gangers Hill Car Park. It may be possible to use the car park at the Velo Barn but ask for permission first as the gates are locked when the cafe is closed. There’s a layby next to the barn on Pilgrims Way with space for 3 cars.

From the start at Gangers Hill Car Park, cross over The Ridge to pick up the North Downs Way heading east. This first section is a steep descent down into fields where the route runs parallel and close to the M25. After ~1.5km you’ll meet a path junction with the Vanguard Way and Greenwich Meridian Trail. If you want to visit Botley Hill, the high point of the North Downs, this is where you can take a diversion from the path for 1 km, returning back the same way. We kept on the North Downs Way but visited Botley Hill by car after the walk.

Continuing east along the North Downs Way you’ll soon pass a plaque marking the point where the North Downs Way and Vanguard Way crosses the Greenwich Meridian Line. Further along, at ~3km into the walk you’ll reach a T junction where the Vanguard Way splits off from the North Downs Way to the right. Take a left at this junction to follow Pitchfont Lane, a wide path heading uphill through land managed by the Titsey Foundation.

At the end of Pitchfont Lane you’ll reach a roundabout connecting Croydon Lane, Clarks Lane and Titsey Hill (road). Here you can take a 300m (and back) diversion to visit the Botley Hill Trig Pillar, just off The Ridge (road). Alternatively, there’s a free car park at the roundabout where you can return to bag the trig later.

Continuing east along the North Downs Way, the trail runs parallel to Titsey Hill (road) for ~800m then crosses through Crossharbour Beeches to meet Clarks Lane opposite the Titsey Brewery. Here you’ll pass the Coccolith artwork (see banner photo at the top of this post) and a great view to the south. You’ll also see one of the 12 wooden Surrey Hills boundary markers.

For the final part of this section continue east, crossing over Clarks Lane and onto Chestnut Avenue, then onto The Avenue. Look out for boundary stone near the western end of The Avenue which marks the Surrey/Kent border. When The Avenue meets Westerham Hill (road) take a right to follow Westerham Hill back to The Velo Barn.

This was the end of our first Chapter of walking The North Downs Way with our friend Mark. We had completed original objective was to complete the Surrey section. With our busy schedules it took us 2.5 years to cover the 7 sections. We’ll do the Kent sections one day but for now there’s other parts of Surrey to explore.

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Previous Section (west): Walking The North Downs Way Part 6: Merstham to Gangers Hill

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View across the Thames Estuary from One Tree Hill

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Significance:  Unitary Authority High Point for Thurrock
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Langdon Hill NHN = Langdon Hill
Elevation: 116m
Date climbed: November 24th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 33' 5'' N, 0° 25' 19'' E

Route Start & Finish: Beacon Field Car Park, 1 Dry Street, Langdon Hills, Basildon, SS16 5LT
Route Distance: 8.1 km (5 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 143m
Subsidiary tops on route: Hawkesbury Hill (70m), One Tree Hill (80m), Old Hill (75m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 13
OS Trig Pillar: TP3681 - Hawksbury Bush
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Southend-on-Sea & Basildon Map | Brentwood & Billericay | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 175
Links: Wikipedia: (Thurrock, Langdon Hills), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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After a couple of quick drive-bys to bag the twin high points of Southend, I drove to the nearby Langdon Hills Country Park for a more interesting adventure. The high point of the Unitary Authority of Thurrock is a slope point near the top of Langdon Hill, cut off by the Thurrock/Basildon boundary. It can also be bagged on a quick drive-by but the 8km walk including the nearby Trig Pillar and One Tree Hill is much more interesting.

Start at the Beacon Field Car Park and take the footpath than runs along the right hand side of Dry Street. The footpath will end so you’ll need to walk along the road for a short distance. There’s no pavement but it’s a quiet lane and dangerous as long as you keep an eye out for cars. At 1.6km (1 mile) into the walk take a right onto One Tree Hill (road), then take the first footpath on the left. Follow the footpaths across the fields in a north-easterly direction, joining Hawkesbury Bush Lane. Take a right onto a footpath that enters Langdon Hills Country Park.

Instead of following the footpath that runs diagonally across the field, keep to the left hand side of the field and follow a small path into the woods, ascending up Hawesbury Hill. Here you’ll find the Trig Pillar hiding in thick undergrowth at the top of the hill. Any nice views of the estuary have been long since overgrown.

Retrace your steps out of the woods and take a left to follow the fence to re-join the footpath that started back at the gate. Follow this path in a south-westerly direction for 1km to reach One Trill Hill (road). Cross the road and walk through the car park to take the path up to the summit of One Tree Hill. There’s great views to the south on a clear day (which I didn’t have when I visited).

After One Tree Hill continue heading in a south-westerly direction, cutting through Northlands Wood. The path will take a sharp right-turn to the north and start ascending Old Hill. You can visit the summit with a short diversion from the path, but there’s little of interest there. Continue to follow the path as it snakes around Old Hill, crossing over Old Hill Avenue and back into Langdon Hills Country Park. When you meet a bench dedicated to the Langdon Leggies Nordic Walkers take a right to follow a path that gently ascends through the woods back towards the car park.

When you reach the east-west path before the Beacon Hill field you’ll be at the Thurrock/Basildon border and the Thurrock High Point. The more interesting feature is the Beacon a few metres further into the field. From here walk diagonally across the field to the north-western corner to the Langdon Hill “summit” before returning to the car park.

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Ascending Shirburn Hill

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Significance: Highest peak in Oxfordshire (Historic County Top)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Haddington Hill. NHN = Haddington Hill
Elevation: 257m
Date climbed: 24th August 2013 and 19th November 2023
Coordinates:  51° 39' 21'' N, 0° 56' 53'' W

Route Start & Finish: Christmas Common Road, Lewknor, Oxfordshire, OX49 5HL
Distance: 12.1 km (7.5 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 270m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Chiltern Way, Oxfordshire Way
Other routes touched (cycle): Chiltern Cycleway
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Fox & Hounds (8 km in)
OS Trig Pillar: TP0317 - Shirburn Hill
Map: OS Explorer Map Active (171) Chiltern Hills West, Henley-on-Thames and Wallingford
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Oxfordshire), Wikipedia (Cowleaze Wood), Peakbagger, Hillbagging, Cowleaze Wood, Halifax LW579 51 Squadron RAF Memorial, Wormsley Estate, Christmas Common

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This is classic Chiltern walk with rolling hills, an Historic County Top, an OS Trig Pillar and an old English pub along the way. Timea and I had visited Bald Hill, the Oxfordshire Historic County Top, as a drive-by 10 years before but we wanted to revisit it as a part of a longer walk. With a friend visiting for the weekend and needing to find a great Chilterns experience so we headed off towards Christmas Common.

The guidance below will help you navigate but don’t use it as a fully accurate turn-by-turn guide. Always take a map and/or a GPX route and prepare well for the weather and terrain.

The best place to start the walk is at the free car park at Cowleaze Woods. At the start of the central trail from the car park you’ll find an information board about the nearby RAF Memorial. This tells the story of a Halifax bomber that crashed into the woods in March 1944 killing its 7 crew. From this board you can follow waymarkers to the crash site.

Follow these markers for 100m to reach a junction in the path then take a left. This is where you’ll leave the trail to the crash site to visit the Oxfordshire County Top. The unmarked “summit” is ~300m from the junction. It’s pretty underwhelming especially when compared to the present-day Oxfordshire County Top at Whitehorse Hill near Swindon.

After the County Top take the next right and follow paths that curve to the south to find the Halifax bomber crash site. Here you’ll find a memorial stone and a small information board. We visited soon after Remembrance Day so there were fresh poppies and wreaths around the memorial.

After the memorial find and follow a path that runs east through Cowleaze Woods and into the Wormsley Estate. When you reach a small road take a left then leave the road on a path on the right to ascend into woods at Highfield Shaw. Here you’ll take a right onto a path that will lead you down to the Chiltern Way. Take a right onto the Chiltern Way and follow it for 700 metres to a junction in the woods. Here leave the Chiltern Way and continue heading west, ascending through Charley Shaw to Christmas Common.

The Fox and Hounds at Christmas Common is a great place to stop for a rest before the final 4km. It’s a popular pub and gets very busy at weekends so it’s best to book a table if you’re planning to eat there.

After visiting the Fox and Hounds take a left and follow the Oxfordshire Way as it curves to the west, descending between Watlington Hill and Shirburn Hill. At the bottom of the hill the path becomes a road and you’ll pass farm buildings on the left before taking a footpath on the right. Follow this path, gradually ascending Shirburn Hill until you reach the field next to Christmas Common Road. The path crosses diagonally across the field towards Cowleaze Water Tower, however if you take a right half-way across the field directly to the hedge you can visit the Shirburn Hill OS Trig Pillar.

After the Trig Pillar head north to the gate in the corner of the field. Cross over the road to the Water Tower and follow the footpath back into Cowleaze Woods car park and the completion of the walk.

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OTHER HIGH POINT IN OXFORDSHIRE

• Whitehorse Hill (261m) Oxfordshire Ceremonial County High Point, previously part of Historic Berkshire: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

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Two sides of the Miswell Bridge. Left: looking west, Right: looking east.

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The Wendover Canal is an arm of the Grand Union Canal that branches off from the main Grand Union at Bulbourne near Marsworth on the Hertfordshire / Buckinghamshire border. It was originally planned as a feeder to carry water from springs near Wendover on the northern edge of the Chilterns the main line of the Grand Union. Paul Whitewick’s video tells the story of the birth and decline of the canal and is useful watching before visiting it.

We walked the length of the canal in three sections over the autumn of 2023. Each section was part of a circular walk of around 10k. A single point-to-point walk of the canal is 11.4k. Scroll down to the bottom of this page for details.

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Section 1: Wendover to Stablebridge Road

Start & Finish: Wendover Clock Tower, 3 Tring Rd, Wendover, Aylesbury HP22 6DU
Distance: 10.8 km (6.7 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 166m.
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Aylesbury Ring, Outer Aylesbury Ring, Wendover Woods Hillfort Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: Many in Wendover Village Centre, Restaurant at the Chiltern Forest Golf Club (6.3k in), Wendover Woods Cafe (8.4 km in)
OS Trig Pillar: TP2394 - Coombe Hill
Map: Chiltern Hills North Map | Aylesbury, Berkhamsted & Chesham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 181
Links: Wendover Arm Canal (Wikipedia / Canal & River Trust / Wendover Canal Trust) , Wendover, Halton, RAF Halton, Wendover Woods

Section 1 starts at the Clock Tower in Wendover Town Centre. From here head north along Aylesbury Road then take a right onto Wharf Road. Here you’ll find the start of the Wendover Canal footpath at the point where Heron Brook passes under the road into the canal. This first section of the path covers 4.5 km, ending at Stablebridge Road. Along the way you’ll pass through Halton village and past the RAF Halton.

At Stablebridge Road leave the canal and walk south along the Outer Aylesbury Ring. Cross over the B4009 Upper Icknield Way and ascend up through the Chiltern Forest Golf Course. Continue along the Outer Aylesbury Ring to the Wendover Woods Visitors’ Centre. Along the way you can opt to take a short-cut across a field to visit the Coombe Hill Trig Pillar.

From the Wendover Woods Visitors’ Centre, pick up the Hillfort Trail to reach a footpath that leads down to Beechwood Lane. Continue in a south-westerly direction along Beechwood Lane, Barlow Road, Hampden Road and onto the B4009 Upper Icknield Way to return to the Wendover Clock Tower.

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Section 2: Stablebridge Road to Miswell Farm

Start & Finish: Small car park on western side of Stablebridge Road, Aston Clinton, just south of the canal.
Distance: 8.9 km (5.5 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 157m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Outer Aylesbury Ring, Tring Parish Walk 1: Little Tring
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: Restaurant at the Chiltern Forest Golf Club (6.7k in)
Map: Chiltern Hills North Map | Aylesbury, Berkhamsted & Chesham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 181
Links: Wendover Arm Canal (Wikipedia / Canal & River Trust / Wendover Canal Trust), Aston Clinton, Drayton Beauchamp

Section 2 picks up at Stablebridge Road and follows the Wendover Canal for 2.6 km to the wooden footbridge near Misbourne Farm. This takes you to the point where the restored part of the canal finishes. Cross over the footbridge and follow the path in a south-easterly direction. Cross over the B488 Icknield Way, following Miswell Lane and take a right onto Buckingham Lane. Continue in a westerly direction through the residential estate to meet a footpath by the playing fields. Take a left to follow this path.

Continue to follow the path as it curves round to the west, crossing over the A41, Dancers End Lane and then up the hill into the woods. Here you’ll reconnect with the Outer Aylesbury Ring near the Chiltern Forest Golf Course from section 1. Descend the hill in the opposite direction that you took in section 1 (heading north) to return to the canal at Stablebridge Road.

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Section 3: Miswell Farm to Marsworth

Start & Finish: The Red Lion Pub, 90 Vicarage Rd, Marsworth, Tring HP23 4LU
Distance: 9.7 km (6 miles)
Elevation change: +/-61m.
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Tring Parish Walk 1: Little Tring
Other routes touched (cycle): Grand Union Canal Towpath, Tring 5 Cycle Route
Pubs / Cafes on route: The Red Lion (at start and end), Waters Edge (0.6km in)
Map: Chiltern Hills North Map | Aylesbury, Berkhamsted & Chesham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 181
Links: Wendover Arm Canal (Wikipedia / Canal & River Trust / Wendover Canal Trust), Marsworth, Tring Reservoirs, Grand Union Canal

Section 3 completes the Wendover Arm and gives a tour of Marsworth, the start of the Aylesbury Canal and the Marsworth Reservoirs. The start and end is at the Red Lion Pub in Marsworth village centre where there’s free on-street parking. From the pub follow Vicarage Road heading in a south-easterly direction and take a right onto Church Lane. When Church Lane starts to curve to the right, take a footpath to the left that leads to a bridge that takes the B489 Lower Icknield Way over the Grand Union Canal.

Cross over the Grand Union and take a left into the Startops End Car Park. This is a good alternative place to start the walk but can often be full at weekends. Take the footpath along the north-westerly edge of Startops End Reservoir then cross over Tringford Road to follow the north-westerly edge of Tringford Reservoir. Keep heading in a southerly direction to Little Tring Road to the bridge over the Wendover Canal.

Before the bridge leave the road to pick up the footpath heading (right) in a westerly direction to a dead-end / turnaround spot for canal boats. Continue along the footpath, now in a south-westerly direction to a path junction. Take a right, heading north to return to the Wendover Canal at the wooden footbridge where section 2 left the canal.

After crossing the footbridge, take a right to follow the route of the canal, currently dry and under restoration works. The path will lead you back to Little Tring Road where you’ll need to temporarily leave the route of the old towpath to reach the Little Tring Road bridge again. Rejoin the canal towpath, this time taking a left to head in an easterly direction. Follow the canal towpath for 2.1 km to reach the end of the Wendover Arm at Bulbourne.

To complete the walk, take a left onto the main route of the Grand Union Canal, following it for 1.7 km to the start of the Aylesbury Canal. Cross over the first lock of the Aylesbury Canal and continue to the Long Marston Road Bridge. Cross over the bridge and you’ll be back on Vicarage Road near the Red Lion Pub

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The Full Wendover Arm Canal Route

The 3 circular route sections shown together. Green = Section 1, Blue = Section 2, Red = Section 3

The Point to Point Walk from Wendover to Bulbourne

Details for a Point-to-Point Walk:

Start: Wharf Road, Wendover, Aylesbury, HP22 6HF
Finish: Junction with main route of Grand Union Canal at New Canal Cottages, Tring HP23 4NG
Distance: 11.4 km (7.1 miles)
Elevation change: +55m /- 57m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Aylesbury Ring, Outer Aylesbury Ring, Tring Parish Walk 1: Little Tring
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: Many in Wendover Village Centre, none on route
Map: Chiltern Hills North Map | Aylesbury, Berkhamsted & Chesham | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 181
Links: Wendover Arm Canal (Wikipedia / Canal & River Trust / Wendover Canal Trust) , Wendover, Halton, Aston Clinton, Tring Reservoirs, Grand Union Canal

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Navigating the bog near a misty Hill of Stake

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Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Renfrewshire, High Point of Muirshiel Regional Park
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Cruach nan Capull
Elevation: 522m
Date climbed: September 24th 2023
Coordinates: 55° 49' 45'' N, 4° 45' 28'' W

Route Start & Finish: Muirshiel Visitor Centre, Calder Glen Road, Lochwinnoch, PA12 4LB
Route Distance: 12.8 km (8 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 429m
Subsidiary tops on route: Misty Law (510m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3902 - Hill Of Stake
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at the Muirshiel Visitor Centre at start and finish
Map: Greenock, Largs & Millport Map | Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 341
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Renfrewshire / Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park / Hill of Stake), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. It was our final day of the trip and, with the Bens ticked off, we just had Hill of Stake to complete.

The 3 Bens were similar walks: steep, high mountains on popular well marked paths. Hill of Stake is in a remote part of the Muirshiel Regional Park on a route with occasional paths that disappear into the boggy ground.

The first 4 km from the Visitor Centre is straightforward, following a well-signed track to the old mine. From the mine you can follow a path parallel to a stream in a south-westerly direction. You’ll need a compass or GPX route, especially in low visibility conditions as the path abruptly ends. By taking a bearing you can reach the Trig Pillar marking the lonely summit of Hill of Stake. From here you can either retrace your steps or, as we did, continue on an anti-clockwise route to also take in Misty Law.

Navigation to Misty Law is simple if you follow the fence from the Hill of Stake summit. You’ll also pass over East Girt hill with its summit marked by a small pile of stones. The fence follows a curve and we thought we could outsmart it by following a direct line to Misty Law. It was extremely wet and boggy so we soon returned to the fence line. Near the top of Misty Law you’ll need to cross the barbed wire fence but there’s an obvious place to cross where blue plastic tubing saves your crotch from the barbs. Once you’ve bagged the Misty Law summit return to this spot on the fence then take a north-westerly bearing to the confluence of Black Grain Burn and Raith Burn.

The main challenge of the walk is how to cross over to the northern side of Raith Burn. It’s a fast-flowing stream with narrow enough places to cross via rocks but very slippery. We sent Joel, the tallest member of the group over first. Not having his height and having a fear of slipping I decided against his chosen mid-stream rock and opted for a spot further down. All 5 of us managed to cross in different sections but somehow Joel managed to fall in having already crossed it.

After crossing the Raith Burn follow a path that runs alongside it for around 1 km before leaving it to take a bearing in a north-easterly direction to the bridge across the Calder Water. Once across take a right to follow the track back to the Visitors Centre.

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Other High Points in the Historic County of Renfrewshire

• Creuch Hill. 441 metres, Inverclyde Present Day County High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

• Corse Hill. 376 metres, East Renfrewshire Present Day County High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

• Cathkin Braes. 200m, Glasgow East Renfrewshire Present Day County High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

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View over Loch Lomond on the descent from Ben Lomond

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Also known as: Beinn Laomainn (“beacon mountain")
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Stirlingshire, high point for the Loch Lomond NSA
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Beinn Ime. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 974m
Date climbed: September 23rd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 11' 25'' N, 4° 37' 59'' W

Route Start & Finish: Ben Lomond (Rowardennan) Car Park, Stirling, G63 0AR
Route Distance: 12 km (7.5 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 913m
Subsidiary tops on route: Ptarmigan (778m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lomond Trail, Ptarmigan Ridge Path, West Highland Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1283 - Ben Lomond
Pubs / Cafes on route: None on route but the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel is near the car park
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Stirlingshire / Ben Lomond), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. We were on our 3rd day of the trip and had already ticked off Ben Lawers and Ben Vorlich. Now for Ben Lomond, not the highest of the trip, but definitely the most iconic. Ben Lomond is the most southerly Munro, sits on the edge of Loch Lomond and is very close to Glasgow. As such it’s very popular and it can be hard to find parking spots.

We read that in the summer the police close off the road to the main car-park. We were there in late September after the summer peak but we also had to get in a parkrun as it was a Saturday. By the time we arrived it was 11:00 and the main car-park was full so we parked in the overflow instead. This has its advantage though as it’s free and has a direct connection to the Ben Lomond Trail.

We opted for the clockwise circular route, initially following the West Highland Way from the overflow to the main car-park then picking up the Ptarmigan Ridge Path that ascends on the western side of the mountain closest to the Loch. The weather was a bit grey but we still had great views down to the Loch as we climbed.

The different map apps that we had in the group gave different positions for the summit of Ptarmigan so we visited both just to be sure. After Ptarmigan there’s a steep final ascent to the Ben Lomond summit and the Trig Pillar. The summit is flat and, when we were there, fairly crowded with walkers stopping for lunch. After a quick break we continued the circuit, descending down via the Ben Lomond Way.

Near the Loch there’s a path junction with one route to the main car-park and another to the overflow. We took the route to the main car-park to have a celebratory drink at the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel.

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View to the south-west on the descent of Ben Vorlich

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Also Known as: Beinn Mhùrlaig
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Dunbartonshire
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: xx. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 943m
Date climbed: September 22nd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 16' 27'' N, 4° 45' 18'' W

Route Start & Finish: Inveruglas Visitor Centre, Inveruglas Farm, A82, Arrochar, G83 7DP
Route Distance: 13.3 km (8.3 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 904m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Loch Lomond and Cowal Way, Three Lochs Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1309 - Ben Vorlich
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Inveruglas Visitor Centre at start/finish.
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Dunbartonshire / Ben Vorlich), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. After ticking off Ben Lawers we drove south to Balquhidder to stay at the Mhor 84 hotel ahead of tackling Ben Vorlich the next day.

It was during dinner at Mhor 84 that I realised that there was more than one Ben Vorlich and I had planned for the wrong one. Fortunately the correct one was only a 40 minute drive in the direction of our 3rd peak of the trip so we didn’t lose any time overall. Definitely a lesson learned for future trips as I soon found out that there’s also more than one Morven.

With a brand new route plan we arrived at the Inveruglas Visitor Centre for the start of the walk. We often follow Jonny Muir’s guide for the routes but this time decided to take a southern approach to Ben Vorlich instead of the northern route from Ardlui Station that he took.

From the Visitor Centre, head south along the Three Lochs Way following the A82. You’ll pass the Hydroelectric Power Station on your right. After ~900m leave the A82, still following the Three Loch Way along a track now heading west. This track runs parallel to the Inveruglas Water (stream), curving to the north to reach the dam at the southern edge of Loch Stoy.

At ~3km from leaving the A82 and 1 km before the dam you’ll meet a footpath heading steeply up to the right. This is a good place to take a break before the main ascent. Once on the path it’s a further 2.6 km climb to the cairn that marks the summit. You’ll pass the Ben Vorlich Trig Pillar shortly before the high point. For the descent retrace your steps back to the Visitor Centre. As with our Ben Lawers trip the day before, we had a lot of mist, drizzle and wind at the top but much better weather as we descended. Our slog to the top was rewarded by amazing views over both Loch Lomond and Loch Stoy.

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Other High Points in the Historic County of Dunbartonshire

• Earl's Seat, 578 metres, East Dunbartonshire Present Day County High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

• Duncolm. 401 metres, West Dunbartonshire Present Day County High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

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Descending Ben Lawyers towards Beinn Ghlas

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Also known as: Beinn Labhair
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Perthshire, Council Top for Perth and Kinross, high point for the Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Ben Nevis NHN = Aonach Beag
Elevation: 1,124m
Date climbed: September 21st 2023
Coordinates: 56° 32' 42'' N, 4° 13' 15'' W

Route Start & Finish: National Trust of Scotland Ben Lawers Car Park, Killin, FK21 8TY
Route Distance: 11.4 km (7.1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 838m
Subsidiary tops on route: Beinn Ghlas
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lawers Trail
OS Trig Pillar: TP1281 - Ben Lawers
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Ben Lawers & Glen Lyon Map | Loch Tay, Killin & Kenmore | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL48
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Perthshire / Ben Lawers), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. First up was Ben Lawers, the 3rd highest UK Historic County Top and the highest of this particular trip.

After a flight from London and a 2 hour drive from Glasgow we arrived at the National Trust car park at the start of the trail. The Ben Lawers Trail is well marked and maintained making navigation very easy. We also had good visibility on the day, although the summit was wet and very windy. The trek to the summit passes over Beinn Ghlas, a 1103 m Munro, followed by a small descent before a steep climb to the Ben Lawers Trig Pillar.

For the return to the car park you can either retrace your steps over Beinn Ghlas or take an alternative path to the west from the col between the two peaks. This alternative route rejoins the main Ben Lawers Trail by a fence at 2.2 km from the car park.

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Approach to Liddington Hill from The Ridgeway

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Significance:  Unitary Authority High Point for Swindon
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Walbury Hill. NHN = Milk Hill
Elevation: 276m
Date climbed: August 20th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 30' 41'' N, 1° 41' 40'' W

Route Start & Finish: Parking spots on Aldbourne Road (B4192) or on The Ridgeway (Road).
Route Distance: 6 km (3.7 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 98m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: The Ridgeway
OS Trig Pillar: TP0743 - Liddington Castle
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Cirencester & Swindon Map | Fairford & Cricklade | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 169
Links: Wikipedia: (Swindon, Liddington Castle), Peakbagger: (Castle / Hill), Hillbagging

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Liddington Hill is the high point of the Unitary Authority of Swindon within the Historic County of Wiltshire. The summit of the hill has the remains of Liddington Castle, a late Bronze Age and early Iron Age hillfort with a prominent Trig Pillar on the north-eastern rim.

Although the Trig Pillar is the highest position on the hill, the natural high point is a little to the south-east in a farmer’s field. There were crops growing at the time and robust fencing around the castle so I decided not to walk to the natural high-point. From the castle it’s hard to spot the highest natural position on a relatively flat summit so tramping through crops to an unmarked position didn’t feel right. At the time I was more interested in finding the remains of the WW2 decoy bunker on the route back to the parking spot. See this video on YouTube for more on the bunker.

Access to the hill is easy and the summit can be bagged in a simple out-and-back from Aldbourne Road or as a minor detour from the Ridgeway. There’s parking space for a few cars at the junction of Aldbourne Road and The Ridgeway (path). These were full when I arrived so I used a layby round the corner on the road called The Ridgeway to the north of the hill.

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Approach to Coety Mountain from Forge Side Road

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Coety Mountain

Also known as: Coity Mountain / Mynydd Coety (Welsh)
Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Blaenau Gwent
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: Pen y Fan. NHN = Sugar Loaf
Elevation: 578m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 45' 55'' N, 3° 6' 53'' W
Links: Wikipedia: Blaenau Gwent, Coety Mountain, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Coety Mountain East Slope

Significance:  Unitary Authority High Point for Torfaen
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Coety Mountain. NHN = Coety Mountain
Elevation: 574m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 45' 56'' N, 3° 6' 50'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Torfaen), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Route Start & Finish: Parking space before the cattle grid near Varteg Road Cemetery, Varteg Road, Pontypool, NP4, UK
Route Distance: 10.1 km (6.2 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 276m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): N/A
Other routes touched (cycle): N/A but NCN 492 passes very close to the start of the walk.
OS Trig Pillar: TP5042 - Mynydd Varteg Fawr
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Ordnance Survey OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park - Eastern Area Map
Links: Blaenavon, Blaenavon World Heritage Site

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Coety Mountain is the high point of the Welsh Principal Areas of Blaenau Gwent and Torfaen within the Historic County of Monmouthshire. The Blaenau Gwent / Torfaen border runs along the ridge of the mountain with the 2 high points very close together.

The quickest way to bag the high points is an out-and-back from the Whistle Inn Halt at the north-western end of Blaenavon. Instead I chose a longer circular route from the south-eastern end of town to include the Mynydd Farteg Fawr Trig Pillar. There’s a parking space for a couple of cars near the cattle grid by the cemetary on Varteg Road, or, if not available you can also park along Forge Side Road.

From Varteg Road follow Forge Side Road in a north-westerly direction until you reach a footpath on the left by an old access road to a mine. Follow the path to the left of the mine as it curves up the hill towards the south-east. At a path junction take the path that leads to the north-west and follow that for about 250m. There’s no direct path from here to access the top of the ridge so I found a safe spot and headed up through the bracken. When you reach the top of the ridge take a left to follow the path to the Trig Pillar.

After the Trig Pillar retrace your steps to where you reached the top and continue following the path for ~2.4 km to the top of Coety Mountain. Keep an eye on the GPS though as the path disappears before the summit. The top of Coety Mountain is obvious but you’ll need to follow the GPS to reach the East Slope which is the high point of Torfaen.

After the high points make your way down to a track that leads to an old mine. Around 100m to the north-west of the mine you can pick up a path that leads to the south-east. Follow this for ~3.6km until you reach the point where you left the path earlier to reach the Trig Pillar. From here retrace your steps to the start of the walk at Varteg Road.

While in Blaenavon it’s worth spending a bit more time there to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site attractions and the Historic Railway. I completed the walk just in time to take a ride on the old steam train that follows the track connecting the Whistle Inn Halt and Varteg Road. You’ll get a great view of Coety Mountain and Mynydd Farteg Fawr on the trip.

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Blaenavon's Heritage Railway

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Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Newport
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Mynydd Twyn-glas
Elevation: 309m
Date climbed: August 20th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 38' 40'' N, 2° 51' 8'' W

Route Start & Finish: Cadeira Beeches car park, Usk Road, Llanvaches, Newport, NP26 3AZ
Route Distance: 2.6 km (1.6 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 37m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: N/A
OS Trig Pillar: TP6796 - Wentwood
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Newport & Pontypool/Casnewydd a Pont-y-Pŵl Map | Caerleon & Usk | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 152
Links: Wikipedia: Newport / Wentwood, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Wentwood is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Newport within the Historic County of Monmouthshire. The Trig Pillar that marks the summit can be reached on a 2.6km out-and-back walk from the Cadeira Beeches car park. There’s an even closer parking spot just to the east of the Trig Pillar accessible from the north/south road that connects the A48 with Usk Road. I was there early on a Sunday morning and there was plenty of room to park so I made this one a very quick drive-by on the way to the more interesting Coety Mountain.

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Pontsticill Reservoir and view to the Brecon Beacons

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Merthyr Common

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Merthyr Tydfil
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Pen March
Elevation: 531m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 25'' N, 3° 20' 6'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Merthyr Tydfil), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Pen March

Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Caerphilly
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Cefn yr Ystrad. NHN = Cefn yr Ystrad
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 51° 47' 27'' N, 3° 19' 56'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Caerphilly), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Route Start & Finish: Red Cow Inn, Main Road, Pontsticill, Merthyr Tydfil, CF48 2UN
Route Distance: 6.6 km (4.1 miles)
Route Elevation change: +/- 284m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Taff Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 8
Pubs / Cafes on route: Red Cow Inn at start and finish
Map: Brecon Beacons National Park / Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog Map | Western Area | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL12
Links: Pontisticill, Pontsticill Reservoir, Brecon Beacons National Park

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This walk covers the high points of both the Welsh Principal Areas of Merthyr Tydfil and Caerphilly.

To start the walk I parked outside the Red Cow Inn at Pontsticill and followed the road down the hill to cross over Taff Fechan (river) to meet the Taff Trail. Cross the road opposite the water treatment plant to join a footpath that leads up the hill in a north-easterly direction. The path crosses under the Brecon Mountain Railway to meet a path junction at the 350m contour line. Take a right and keep to the path now heading south-east. At the 440m contour line, approximately 1.4km into the walk, leave the path and cross open land towards the high points. This is where I found it essential to follow my GPX track as it’s easy to get lost up there.

The route to the high point roughly follows the border of Merthyr Tydfil and Powys until you reach a dry pond that marks the Merthyr / Powys / Caerphilly county tri-point. The Merthyr Common high point is to the west of the pond and Pen March to the east. There’s nothing to mark either and neither feels like an achieved summit as the ground in Powys to the north of the border is higher.

My original plan for this walk was to include the Trig Point at the summit of Cefn Yr Ystrad. It was now late in a full day of high-point bagging, getting cold and the route to the Trig Pillar was boggy. I decided to leave Cefn Yr Ystrad for another day, return to Pontsticill and rest for more high-points the next day.

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2 Peaks and a County Tri-point

Map base = Esri Topo

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Penlle'r Castel

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Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Swansea
Member of: Marilyns
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Garreg Lwyd
Elevation: 373m
Date climbed: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 46' 2'' N, 3° 56' 15'' W

Route Start & Finish: Parking spot at junction of 2 small roads at marker 48 of the Gower Way
Route Distance: 1.3 km (>1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 55m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Gower Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP5000 - Mynydd Bettws
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Swansea/Abertawe Map | Neath/Castell-Nedd & Port Talbot | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 165
Links: Wikipedia: (Swansea / Mynydd y Betws / Penlle'r Castell), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Mynydd y Betws is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Swansea within the Historic County of Glamorganshire.

It’s a misleading name as the Swansea high point is at Penlle'r Castel, an historic ruin on the summit of Mynydd y Gwair. There’s a nearby Trig Pillar called Mynydd Betws and, according to the map I was using, another summit called Mynydd y Betws with an elevation of 341m. I decided to bag them all just to be sure. My plan was to do them in a circular walk from the start of the access road to the farm near the Trig Pillar. It was wet and windy when I arrived so I decided to bag the Trig Pillar and the 341m peak first, then drive closer to the path to Penlle'r Castel.

The best place to park for access to Penlle'r Castel is at a path junction by marker 48 of The Gower Way on the east side of the hill. If you’re driving there from the south you’ll likely come up the Rhydypandy Road. This passes very close to the western side of the summit shortly before a sharp bend in the road and a steep descent. There’s no safe parking space here, so continue down the hill, then take a right at the first junction to find the parking spot at Gower Way marker 48. Note that the road junction you will have just taken is the tri-point of the counties of Swansea, Carmarthenshire and Neath Port Talbot.

From the parking spot follow the Gower Way to the remains of Penlle'r Castel. My map had the 371m point a little further to the south-west so I continued along the path, almost to the Rhydypandy Road. Retrace your steps to return to the parking spot.

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Tair Onnen Trig Pillar

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Also known as: Tair Onen (Pantylladron)
Significance: High Point for the Welsh Principal Area of Vale of Glamorgan
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Craig y Llyn. NHN = Garth Hill
Elevation: 137m
Date “climbed”: August 19th 2023
Coordinates: 51° 27' 24'' N, 3° 23' 17'' W

Route Start & Finish: Parking space near entrance of ConeMasters Limited, St Hilary Offices & Depot, Tair Onen, St Hilary, CF71 7UA
Route Distance: 1.2 km (>1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 5m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: N/A
OS Trig Pillar: TP6301 - Tair Onen
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Cardiff & Bridgend / Caerdydd a Pen-y-Bont Ar Ogwr Map | Vale of Glamorgan / Bro Morgannwg | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 151
Links: Wikipedia (Vale of Glamorgan), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

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Tair Onen is the high point of the Welsh Principal Area of Vale of Glamorgan within the Historic County of Glamorganshire.

This High Point can be bagged with a very short walk from the parking space near entrance of ConeMasters Limited. From the parking space walk south and cross the A48. Don’t take the footpath over the stone wall that’s immediately opposite the junction. Instead cross through the gate into the field on the right and follow the left hand edge of the field heading south. When you reach the solar panel farm take a right and follow the path following the northern edge of the solar farm. You’ll soon reach the highest point of the path where you can cut into the field to bag the Trig Pillar and county high point. Fortunately there were no crops growing when I was there but be careful not to damage anything during growing season. Return to the parking spot via the same route.

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