Posts tagged Scotland
Hill of Stake: Renfrewshire County Top

Navigating the bog near a misty Hill of Stake

Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Renfrewshire, High Point of Muirshiel Regional Park
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: TBC. NHN = Cruach nan Capull
Elevation: 522m
Date climbed: September 24th 2023
Coordinates: 55° 49' 45'' N, 4° 45' 28'' W

Route Start & Finish: Muirshiel Visitor Centre, Calder Glen Road, Lochwinnoch, PA12 4LB
Route Distance: 12.8 km (8 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 429m
Subsidiary tops on route: Misty Law (510m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP3902 - Hill Of Stake
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at the Muirshiel Visitor Centre at start and finish
Map: Greenock, Largs & Millport Map | Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 341
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Renfrewshire / Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park / Hill of Stake), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. It was our final day of the trip and, with the Bens ticked off, we just had Hill of Stake to complete.

The 3 Bens were similar walks: steep, high mountains on popular well marked paths. Hill of Stake is in a remote part of the Muirshiel Regional Park on a route with occasional paths that disappear into the boggy ground.

The first 4 km from the Visitor Centre is straightforward, following a well-signed track to the old mine. From the mine you can follow a path parallel to a stream in a south-westerly direction. You’ll need a compass or GPX route, especially in low visibility conditions as the path abruptly ends. By taking a bearing you can reach the Trig Pillar marking the lonely summit of Hill of Stake. From here you can either retrace your steps or, as we did, continue on an anti-clockwise route to also take in Misty Law.

Navigation to Misty Law is simple if you follow the fence from the Hill of Stake summit. You’ll also pass over East Girt hill with its summit marked by a small pile of stones. The fence follows a curve and we thought we could outsmart it by following a direct line to Misty Law. It was extremely wet and boggy so we soon returned to the fence line. Near the top of Misty Law you’ll need to cross the barbed wire fence but there’s an obvious place to cross where blue plastic tubing saves your crotch from the barbs. Once you’ve bagged the Misty Law summit return to this spot on the fence then take a north-westerly bearing to the confluence of Black Grain Burn and Raith Burn.

The main challenge of the walk is how to cross over to the northern side of Raith Burn. It’s a fast-flowing stream with narrow enough places to cross via rocks but very slippery. We sent Joel, the tallest member of the group over first. Not having his height and having a fear of slipping I decided against his chosen mid-stream rock and opted for a spot further down. All 5 of us managed to cross in different sections but somehow Joel managed to fall in having already crossed it.

After crossing the Raith Burn follow a path that runs alongside it for around 1 km before leaving it to take a bearing in a north-easterly direction to the bridge across the Calder Water. Once across take a right to follow the track back to the Visitors Centre.

Other High Points in the Historic County of Renfrewshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Renfrewshire, ScotlandComment
Ben Lomond: Stirlingshire County Top

View over Loch Lomond on the descent from Ben Lomond

Also known as: Beinn Laomainn (“beacon mountain")
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Stirlingshire, high point for the Loch Lomond NSA
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Beinn Ime. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 974m
Date climbed: September 23rd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 11' 25'' N, 4° 37' 59'' W

Route Start & Finish: Ben Lomond (Rowardennan) Car Park, Stirling, G63 0AR
Route Distance: 12 km (7.5 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 913m
Subsidiary tops on route: Ptarmigan (778m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lomond Trail, Ptarmigan Ridge Path, West Highland Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1283 - Ben Lomond
Pubs / Cafes on route: None on route but the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel is near the car park
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Stirlingshire / Ben Lomond), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. We were on our 3rd day of the trip and had already ticked off Ben Lawers and Ben Vorlich. Now for Ben Lomond, not the highest of the trip, but definitely the most iconic. Ben Lomond is the most southerly Munro, sits on the edge of Loch Lomond and is very close to Glasgow. As such it’s very popular and it can be hard to find parking spots.

We read that in the summer the police close off the road to the main car-park. We were there in late September after the summer peak but we also had to get in a parkrun as it was a Saturday. By the time we arrived it was 11:00 and the main car-park was full so we parked in the overflow instead. This has its advantage though as it’s free and has a direct connection to the Ben Lomond Trail.

We opted for the clockwise circular route, initially following the West Highland Way from the overflow to the main car-park then picking up the Ptarmigan Ridge Path that ascends on the western side of the mountain closest to the Loch. The weather was a bit grey but we still had great views down to the Loch as we climbed.

The different map apps that we had in the group gave different positions for the summit of Ptarmigan so we visited both just to be sure. After Ptarmigan there’s a steep final ascent to the Ben Lomond summit and the Trig Pillar. The summit is flat and, when we were there, fairly crowded with walkers stopping for lunch. After a quick break we continued the circuit, descending down via the Ben Lomond Way.

Near the Loch there’s a path junction with one route to the main car-park and another to the overflow. We took the route to the main car-park to have a celebratory drink at the Clansman Bar at the Rowardennan Hotel.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Trails, National Park, National Trust, Stirlingshire, ScotlandComment
Ben Vorlich: Dunbartonshire County Top

View to the south-west on the descent of Ben Vorlich

Also Known as: Beinn Mhùrlaig
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Dunbartonshire
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: xx. NHN = Beinn Ime
Elevation: 943m
Date climbed: September 22nd 2023
Coordinates: 56° 16' 27'' N, 4° 45' 18'' W

Route Start & Finish: Inveruglas Visitor Centre, Inveruglas Farm, A82, Arrochar, G83 7DP
Route Distance: 13.3 km (8.3 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 904m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Loch Lomond and Cowal Way, Three Lochs Way
OS Trig Pillar: TP1309 - Ben Vorlich
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at Inveruglas Visitor Centre at start/finish.
Map: Loch Lomond North Map | Tyndrum, Crianlarich & Arrochar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL39
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Dunbartonshire / Ben Vorlich), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. After ticking off Ben Lawers we drove south to Balquhidder to stay at the Mhor 84 hotel ahead of tackling Ben Vorlich the next day.

It was during dinner at Mhor 84 that I realised that there was more than one Ben Vorlich and I had planned for the wrong one. Fortunately the correct one was only a 40 minute drive in the direction of our 3rd peak of the trip so we didn’t lose any time overall. Definitely a lesson learned for future trips as I soon found out that there’s also more than one Morven.

With a brand new route plan we arrived at the Inveruglas Visitor Centre for the start of the walk. We often follow Jonny Muir’s guide for the routes but this time decided to take a southern approach to Ben Vorlich instead of the northern route from Ardlui Station that he took.

From the Visitor Centre, head south along the Three Lochs Way following the A82. You’ll pass the Hydroelectric Power Station on your right. After ~900m leave the A82, still following the Three Loch Way along a track now heading west. This track runs parallel to the Inveruglas Water (stream), curving to the north to reach the dam at the southern edge of Loch Stoy.

At ~3km from leaving the A82 and 1 km before the dam you’ll meet a footpath heading steeply up to the right. This is a good place to take a break before the main ascent. Once on the path it’s a further 2.6 km climb to the cairn that marks the summit. You’ll pass the Ben Vorlich Trig Pillar shortly before the high point. For the descent retrace your steps back to the Visitor Centre. As with our Ben Lawers trip the day before, we had a lot of mist, drizzle and wind at the top but much better weather as we descended. Our slog to the top was rewarded by amazing views over both Loch Lomond and Loch Stoy.

Other High Points in the Historic County of Dunbartonshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Park, Dunbartonshire, ScotlandComment
Ben Lawers: Perthshire County Top

Descending Ben Lawyers towards Beinn Ghlas

Also known as: Beinn Labhair
Significance: High Point for the Historic County of Perthshire, Council Top for Perth and Kinross, high point for the Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA
Member of: Munros, Marilyns
Parent Peak: Ben Nevis NHN = Aonach Beag
Elevation: 1,124m
Date climbed: September 21st 2023
Coordinates: 56° 32' 42'' N, 4° 13' 15'' W

Route Start & Finish: National Trust of Scotland Ben Lawers Car Park, Killin, FK21 8TY
Route Distance: 11.4 km (7.1 mile)
Route Elevation change: +/- 838m
Subsidiary tops on route: Beinn Ghlas
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Ben Lawers Trail
OS Trig Pillar: TP1281 - Ben Lawers
Pubs / Cafes on route: N/A
Map: Ben Lawers & Glen Lyon Map | Loch Tay, Killin & Kenmore | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map OL48
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia: (Perthshire / Ben Lawers), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

This was a day hike as a part of a 4-day Scottish County Top trip to bag Ben Lawers, Ben Vorlich, Ben Lomond and the Hill of Stake. First up was Ben Lawers, the 3rd highest UK Historic County Top and the highest of this particular trip.

After a flight from London and a 2 hour drive from Glasgow we arrived at the National Trust car park at the start of the trail. The Ben Lawers Trail is well marked and maintained making navigation very easy. We also had good visibility on the day, although the summit was wet and very windy. The trek to the summit passes over Beinn Ghlas, a 1103 m Munro, followed by a small descent before a steep climb to the Ben Lawers Trig Pillar.

For the return to the car park you can either retrace your steps over Beinn Ghlas or take an alternative path to the west from the col between the two peaks. This alternative route rejoins the main Ben Lawers Trail by a fence at 2.2 km from the car park.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Trig Pillar, Mountain, National Trust, Perthshire, ScotlandComment
UK National Parks, AONB and NSA High Points

If bagging all of the UK Historic and Present-Day County tops, plus the Unitary Authorities isn’t enough for you, there’s also the high points of the National Parks, AONBs and National Scenic Areas.

Contact me if you spot any mistakes and I’ll donate £1 to one of my supported causes for each correction made.

UK National Parks High Points

Of the 15 UK National Parks 10 have a high point that is also an Historic County Top. One other, Whernside is the high point of the Ceremonial County of North Yorkshire and was the high point of the Administrative County of the West Riding of Yorkshire. The highest National Park Peak that’s not also a County Top is Ben More (not to be confused with Ben More Assynt) in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

UK National Parks

  1. Cairngorms National Park (Scotland): Ben Macdui (1,309 metres).

  2. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (Scotland): Ben More (1,174 metres).

  3. Snowdonia National Park (Wales): Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa (1085 metres).

  4. Lake District National Park (England): Scafell Pike (978 metres).

  5. Brecon Beacons National Park (Wales): Pen y Fan (886 metres).

  6. Northumberland National Park (England): The Cheviot (815 metres).

  7. Yorkshire Dales National Park (England): Whernside (736 metres).

  8. Peak District National Park (England): Kinder Scout (636 metres).

  9. Dartmoor National Park (England): High Willhays (621 metres).

  10. Pembrokeshire Coast National Park (Wales): Foel Cwmcerwyn (536 metres).

  11. Exmoor National Park (England): Dunkery Beacon (519 metres).

  12. North York Moors National Park (England): Urra Moor - Round Hill (454 metres).

  13. South Downs National Park (England): Black Down (280 metres).

  14. New Forest National Park (England): Pipers Wait (129 metres) or Telegraph Hill (127 metres).

  15. The Broads National Park (England): Strumpshaw Hill - South Slope (40 metres).

England, Wales and Northern Ireland AONBs High Points

National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) are both protected areas in the United Kingdom, but they have different designations and management structures. National Parks are designated by the UK government for their outstanding natural beauty, cultural heritage and recreational opportunities. They are managed by National Park Authorities and have specific planning policies to protect their landscapes and wildlife. On the other hand, AONBs are also designated by the government for their outstanding natural beauty but are managed by local authorities and partnerships. They have different planning policies compared to National Parks. National Parks tend to be more remote and wilder, while AONBs are often found close to populated areas and include cultural heritage and agricultural landscapes. Both National Parks and AONBs are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public but the management, planning policies, and protection of the areas can differ.

There are 46 Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in the UK of which 16 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. St Boniface Down is the high point of both the Ceremonial County of the Isle of Wight and the Isle of Wight AONB.

There were 2 AONBs that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this: Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB and Lagan Valley AONB (Northern Ireland). Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • North Pennines AONB (England). Cross Fell (893m).

  • Mourne Mountains AONB (Northern Ireland). Slieve Donard (850m).

  • Nidderdale AONB (England). Great Whernside (704m).

  • Sperrins AONB (Northern Ireland). Sawel Mountain (678m).

  • Ring of Gullion AONB (Northern Ireland). Slieve Gullion (576m).

  • Forest of Bowland AONB (England). Ward's Stone (561m).

  • Llŷn Peninsula AONB (Wales). Yr Eifl (561m).

  • Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB (Wales). Moel Famau (555m).

  • Antrim Coast and Glens AONB (Northern Ireland). Trostan (550m).

  • Shropshire Hills AONB (England). Brown Clee Hill (540m).

  • Malvern Hills AONB (England). Worcestershire Beacon (425m).

  • Cornwall AONB (England). Brown Willy (420m).

  • Binevenagh AONB (Northern Ireland). Binevenagh (385m).

  • Tamar Valley AONB (England). Kit Hill (334m).

  • Cotswolds AONB (England). Cleeve Common (330m).

  • Mendip Hills AONB (England). Beacon Batch (325m).

  • Blackdown Hills AONB (England). Staple Hill (315m).

  • Wye Valley AONB (England / Wales). Trellech Beacon (313m).

  • North Wessex Downs AONB (England). Walbury Hill (297m).

  • Surrey Hills AONB (England). Leith Hill (294m).

  • Dorset AONB (England). Lewesdon Hill (279m).

  • Cranborne Chase and the West Wiltshire Downs AONB (England). Win Green (277m).

  • North Devon Coast AONB (England). Berry Down near Combe Martin (269m).

  • Chiltern Hills AONB (England). Haddington Hill (267m).

  • Somerset - Quantock Hills AONB (England). Wills Neck (263m).

  • East Devon AONB (England). Gittisham Hill (259m).

  • Kent Downs AONB (England). Toy's Hill (257m).

  • Cannock Chase AONB (England). Castle Ring (242m).

  • Isle of Wight AONB (England). St Boniface Down (241m).

  • High Weald AONB (England). Crowborough Beacon (223m).

  • Anglesey AONB (Wales). Holyhead Mountain (220m).

  • South Devon AONB (England). Blackdown Camp (199m).

  • Gower Peninsula AONB (Wales). The Beacon at Rhossili Down (193m).

  • Howardian Hills AONB (England). Yearsley Cross (174m).

  • Lincolnshire Wolds AONB (England). Wolds Top / Normanby Hill (168m).

  • Arnside and Silverdale AONB (England). Warton Crag (163m).

  • Strangford and Lecale AONB (Northern Ireland). Scrabo Hill (161m).

  • Causeway Coast AONB (Northern Ireland). Carnduff Hill (114m).

  • Norfolk Coast AONB (England). Beacon Hill (105m).

  • Northumberland Coast AONB (England). South Hill (75m).

  • Dedham Vale AONB (England). Broom Hill (69m).

  • Solway Coast AONB (England). Pudding Pie Hill (56m).

  • Isles of Scilly AONB (England). Telegraph on St Mary’s (49m).

  • Chichester Harbour AONB (England). c. three locations with 9m spot height (9m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB (England): Holbrook Park, (~44m)

  • Lagan Valley AONB (Northern Ireland). In garden of private property on Tullyard Rd, Lisburn BT27 5JN (164m)

Scottish NSA High Points

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and National Scenic Area (NSA) are both designations used in the United Kingdom to protect and promote areas of exceptional natural beauty. However, there are some key differences between the two. AONBs are designated by the UK government and are considered to be the most important landscapes in the country, with the highest level of protection afforded to them. NSAs, on the other hand, are designated by the Scottish government and, while they also offer protection to areas of exceptional natural beauty, they do not have the same level of legal protection as AONBs. Additionally, AONBs are managed by local authorities, while NSAs are managed by Scottish National Parks. Both AONBs and NSAs are intended to be enjoyed and appreciated by the public, but the management and protection of the areas can differ.

There are 40 National Scenic Areas (NSA) in Scotland, of which 8 are the county tops of the Historic Counties that they are in. There were 12 NSAs that I couldn’t find a high point for when researching this (scroll down to see). These are mostly in coastal areas without notable high points. Let me know if you know what these high points are and I can update the list.

  • Ben Nevis and Glen Coe NSA: Ben Nevis (1344m).

  • Cairngorm Mountains NSA: Ben Macdui (1309m).

  • Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA: Ben Lawers (1214m).

  • Glen Affric NSA: Càrn Eige (1183m).

  • Deeside and Lochnagar NSA: Lochnagar / Beinn Chìochan (1156m).

  • Glen Strathfarrar NSA: Sgùrr a' Choire Ghlais (1083m).

  • Kintail NSA: Sgurr Fhuaran (1068m).

  • Wester Ross NSA: An Teallach (1062m).

  • Knoydart NSA: Sgurr na Cìche (1040m).

  • Assynt-Coigach NSA: Ben More Assynt (998m).

  • Loch Lomond NSA: Ben Lomond (974m).

  • Cuillin Hills NSA: Sgùrr nan Gillean (964m).

  • North West Sutherland NSA: Foinaven (909m).

  • Loch Shiel NSA: Beinn Odhar Bheag (882m).

  • The Trossachs NSA: Ben Ledi (879m).

  • North Arran NSA: Goat Fell (873.5m).

  • Upper Tweeddale NSA: Broad Law (840m).

  • Small Isles NSA: Askival (812m).

  • South Lewis, Harris and North Uist NSA: Clisham (799m).

  • Jura NSA: Beinn an Òir (785m).

  • Trotternish NSA: The Storr (719m).

  • South Uist Machair NSA: Beinn Mhòr (620m).

  • Knapdale NSA: Stob Odhar (562m).

  • Hoy and West Mainland NSA: Ward Hill (481m).

  • Scarba, Lunga and the Garvellachs NSA: Scarba (449m).

  • St Kilda NSA: Conachair (430m).

  • Eildon and Leaderfoot NSA: Eildon Hill (422m).

  • Lynn of Lorn NSA: Barr Mòr (127m).

To be verified … couldn’t find these originally but have been identified by Joel Adcock.

  • Dornoch Firth NSA: unnamed summit (387m)

  • East Stewartry Coast NSA: Bengairn (391m).

  • Fleet Valley NSA: Ben John (354m)

  • Kyle of Tongue NSA: Ben Hope (927m)

  • Kyles of Bute NSA: Meallan Riabhach (484m).

  • Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull NSA: Ben More (967m)

  • Loch Tummel NSA: Meall Tairneachan (787m)

  • Morar, Moidart and Ardnamurchan NSA: Meall nan Each (490m)

  • Nith Estuary NSA: Criffel (569m).

  • River Earn (Comrie to St. Fillans) NSA: Either slope of Beinn Fuath (~650 metres) or Mor Beinn (640m)

  • River Tay (Dunkeld) NSA: Creag Dhubh (498m)

  • Shetland NSA: The Sneug (418m)

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, National Park, England, Scotland, Wales, Northern IrelandComment
Allermuir Hill and Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh

North face of Arthur’s Seat from Whinney HIll

Allermuir Hill and Arthur’s seat are two very different hills, linked only as being short walks very accessible from Edinburgh Centre. For us they were two “bonus peaks” that we squeezed in on our Edinburgh Crescent County Top trip.

Allermuir Hill

Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Scald Law NHN = Turnhouse Hill
Elevation: 493m
Date climbed: 25th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 52' 57'' N, 3° 14' 14'' W
Route Start / End: Midlothian Snowsports Centre, Hillend, Biggar Road, Edinburgh, EH10 7DU
Route Distance: 4.0 km (2.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 240m
Subsidiary tops on route: None .. but Caerketton Screes could easily be added to the route
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Pentland Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0816 - Allermuir Hill
Map: Edinburgh Map | Musselburgh & Queensferry | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 350
Links: Wikipedia (Pentland Hills), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Having completed Blackhope Scar earlier in the day and with some time to spare, I picked Allermuir as our bonus walk as it was close to our hotel in Dalkeith. We parked at the Midlothian Snowsports Centre and to the track heading west towards the Pentland Way. We chose to ascend via the col between Allermuir and Caerketton Screes. In hindsight, and with better planning, I would have ascended before Caerketton Screes to bag that summit too in the way to Allermuir.

From the Trig Pillar at the summit of Allermuir you get a great view over to Edinburgh, including Arthur’s Seat, the Firth of Forth and, in the other direction, the Pentland Hills. We were there on a very windy afternoon so didn’t hang around on the summit for long so descended following the Pentland Way to the north-east then back to the Snowsports Centre.

Arthur’s Seat

Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Allermuir Hill (to be verified) TBC NHN = Caerketton Hill
Elevation: 251m
Date climbed: 26th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 56' 38'' N, 3° 9' 42'' W
Route Start / End: Parking area near Duddingston Lodge, Old Church Lane, Duddingston, Edinburgh, EH15 3PY
Route Distance: 3.7 km (2.3 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 195m
Subsidiary tops on route: Crow Hill (238m), Nether Hill (237m), Whinney Hill (174m), Dunsapie Crag (146m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0893 - Arthurs Seat
Map: Edinburgh Map | Musselburgh & Queensferry | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 350
Links: Wikipedia, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Arthur’s Seat is an icon of Edinburgh, an extinct volcano dominating Holyrood Park to the east of the city centre. We had completed Meikle Says Law in good time and were keen to fit it in on the way back to the airport. Rather than a simple out-and-back from the closest car park, we ended up having enough time for a small circuit covering 4 smaller peaks on the east side of Holyrood.

Most people access Arthur’s Seat from the west, closest to the city centre. Instead we found a small, quieter car park in the east at Duddingston Village. The simple out-and-back option would have taken us less than 40 minutes and we did the whole circuit in only an hour and a quarter. With more time I would have included Salisbury Crags and Haggis Knowe on the west of the park to do the full Holyrood Circuit. I reckon that the full route would have taken around 2 and a half hours.

Bagging Arthur’s Seat was a satisfying conclusion to our Edinburgh County Tops weekend. We had a a clear day and had a good view to several of the peaks that we bagged over the weekend and the city itself.

Richard gowerTrek, Trig Pillar, Midlothian, ScotlandComment
Edinburgh Crescent County Tops

Ascent of Innerdouny Hill

Our UK County Top bagging trips have now got into a rhythm of an annual long weekend at the end of September. Our group has also grown to 6, although there’s always the inevitable last minute cancellation due to house move / new job / failing body / [*insert excuse here]. For our second Scottish adventure we tackled the “Edinburgh Crescent”, a collection of 6 high points covering 7 historic counties, all within an hour of Edinburgh airport.

We also managed to bag a couple of “bonus peaks”, Allermuir HIll and Arthur’s Seat over the weekend. See this post for details on these.

West Lomond

Significance: Highest peak in Fife (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Ben Cleuch NHN = Innerdownie
Elevation: 522m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 14' 43'' N, 3° 17' 49'' W
Route Start / End: Bunnet Stane Car Park, Cupar, KY14 7RR
Route Distance: 4.5 km (2.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 365m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 1 / EV12 passes Bunnet Stane Car Park
OS Trig Pillar: TP0674 - West Lomond
Map: Glenrothes North, Falkland & Lomond Hills Map | Auchtermuchty & Cupar | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 370
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (West Lomond), Wikipedia (Fife), Bunnet Stane, Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Having landed in Edinburgh Airport mid-morning on the Friday, we picked up a rental car for the 40 minute drive to West Lomond. This is the most north-easterly of this trip’s peaks and a nice warm-up for the longer treks to follow. We met with Joel, who drove from Northern Ireland, at Bunnet Stane Car Park. Don’t let the “car park” label fool you though, it’s just a layby for about 4 cars with a parking sign on it.

The walk to the summit is fairly straightforward, initially flat before getting steeper after Bunnet Stane. This is a rock formation with a man-made cave at the bottom and a information sign describing the history and myth around it. It’s worth stopping here to check it out before the ascent to the summit.

There’s several footpaths to the Trig Pillar at summit but we chose the most well-trodden. For the descent I originally planned to return on the same route but decided at the top to mix it up a bit and make it a circle. This didn’t work out too well as the path I chose to follow was cut of by a fence ahead of a steep drop. We took a alternative, slightly less steep, route down to meet the path we came up on. In hindsight we would have been better off sticking to the out-and-back.

Innerdouny Hill

Significance: Highest peak in Kinross-shire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Ben Cleuch NHN = Innerdownie
Elevation: 497m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 14' 55'' N, 3° 33' 48'' W
Route Start / End: Forestry Commission Car Park at Littlerig on B934
Route Distance: 9.2 km (5.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 220m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP4108 - Innerdouny Hill
Map: Perth & Kinross Map | Ochil Hills East & Loch Leven | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Active Map 369
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Innerdouny Hill), Wikipedia (Kinross-shire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

After West Lomond it’s a half an hour drive to the Littlerig Forestry Commission car park at the start of the walk to Innerdouny Hill. The car park didn’t come up on our sat-nav so we just headed north along the B934 looking out for it on the right. In the end it was easy to find and enough parking for several cars. Given the relative obscurity of the peak, it’s unlikely that you’ll be fighting for a parking spot here.

This is a longer walk than West Lomond but much less elevation. The first 3.9 km follows a wide Forestry Commission track before taking a right turn up a narrow path to the summit. We were there on a very clear day and got great views over the Firth of Forth and some of the other peaks of our trip.

As with West Lomond an out-and-back would have been the best plan. Instead we followed a clearing between a wooded area and a wall to try a more direct route down to the start of the track. It definitely made a more interesting route but in reality didn’t save much time or distance vs. retracing our steps from the summit.

Ben Cleuch

Significance: Highest peak in Clackmannanshire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Donald, Graham
Parent Peak: Ben Chonzie NHN = Carn Chois
Elevation: 721m
Date climbed: 24th September 2022
Coordinates: 56° 11' 8'' N, 3° 46' 10'' W
Route Start / End: Free on-street parking at Upper Mill Street, Tillicoultry, FK13 6AX
Route Distance: 7.9 km (4.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 650m
Subsidiary tops on route: The Law (638m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP0672 - Ben Cleugh
Map: Stirling & Ochil Hills West Map | Alloa & Dunblane | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 366
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Ben Cleuch), Wikipedia (Clackmannanshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Day 2 started with the University of Stirling parkrun, right next to the hotel where we were staying. Stirling is a good option for an overnight stay on the trip and our hotel, part of the University campus, worked out well.

From Stirling it was less than a 30 minute drive to the start of the walk to Ben Cleuch. This was a shorter distance than the previous 2 walks but much higher elevation. Navigation is straightforward as there’s a very well-trodden path to the summit.

Learning from Day 1 we stuck to the out-and-back plan and didn’t attempt a creative alternative route back to the car. The Woolpack Inn, close to the start point, is a good place for a pint and a rest before heading to the Lothians.

Cairnpapple Hill

Significance: Highest peak in West Lothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: West Cairn Hill NHN = West Cairn HIll
Elevation: 312m
Date climbed: 24th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 55' 22'' N, 3° 37' 18'' W
Route Start / End: Cairnpapple Hill parking, 2km from Torphichen, Bathgate, EH48 4LD
Route Distance: 650 km (0.4 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 14m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: Falkirk, Cumbernauld & Livingston Map | Linlithgow, Bathgate & Kilsyth | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 349
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Cairnpapple Hill), Wikipedia (West Lothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Our original plan for Cairnpapple was to follow the short circular route in Jonny Muir’s guidebook. We parked at the small Cairnpapple parking area and took the well-marked south-westerly path to the burial mound. Cairnpapple is commonly regarded as the highest point in West Lothian although the Ballencreif Hill Trig Pillar to the south is higher. Jonny Muir’s guide has the walk continuing in a straight line south from the burial ground to the Trig. Some boundary work must have been done in the meantime as we found a new fence in the way and no obvious means to walk straight to the Trig. Note that Historic Scotland charges an entry fee to the burial ground, although it’s easy to avoid it as the ticket office is not on the gate.

Separate walk to The Knook and the Trig Pillar:

Route Start / End: Top Point Parking, Unnamed Road (south of Cairnpapple Hill), Bathgate, EH48
Route Distance: 1.1 km (0.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 16m
OS Trig Pillar: TP0991 - Ballencrieff Hill
Links: Peakbagger (Knock)

To access the Trig Pillar we returned to the car and drove south down the minor road to a layby near the gate to the field containing the Trig Pillar. Alternative parking can be found on the south side of Knock Hill, another contender for West Lothian’s high point. After climbing to the toposcope on Knock Hill we cross the field to bag the Trig Pillar.

Blackhope Scar

Significance: Highest peak in Midlothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Donald, Graham
Parent Peak: Windlestraw Law NHN = Windlestraw Law
Elevation: 651m
Date climbed: 25th September 2022
Coordinates: 55° 43' 25'' N, 3° 5' 31'' W
Route Start / End: Small parking area on southern end of Gladhouse Reservoir
Route Distance: 17.7 km (11 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 518m
Subsidiary tops on route: The Kips (542m), Bowbeat Hill (636m), Bowbeat Rig (585), Dundreich (623m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP1448 - Blackhope Scar and
Map: TP1448 - Blackhope Scar and TP2914 - Dundreich
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Blackhope Scar), Wikipedia (Midlothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Blackhope Scar was the longest and most interesting of the weekend’s peaks. The small parking area on the southern edge of Gladhouse Reservoir is the best, and realistically only, place to start the walk. The first 2 km is fairly flat as the route follows the private road through a farm and up to the ruins of Hirendean Castle. After the ruins the route ascends in a south-westerly direction to the summit. I had read that the route is very boggy and was preparing for a Meikle Fell style swamp. As we were there following a particularly dry summer the ground was solid and much easier than expected.

Jonny Muir’s guidebook shows the route as an out-and-back to the summit but there’s a more interesting circular route. See this post on Walk Highlights and this video on YouTube for good detailed descriptions on the full circular. As well as being more interesting as a circular, you’ll bag an extra Trig Pillar and a couple of extra summits.

Meikle Says Law

Significance: Highest peak in East Lothian (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn
Parent Peak: Windlestraw Law NHN = Windlestraw Law
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 55° 50' 49'' N, 2° 40' 13'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP0685 - Sayers Law
Links: Wikipedia (Lammermuir Hills), Wikipedia (East Lothian), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Meikle Says Law - Southeast Slope

Significance: Highest peak in Berwickshire (Historic CT)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Meikle Says Law NHN = Meikle Says Law
Elevation: 535m
Coordinates: 55° 50' 45'' N, 2° 40' 15'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Berwickshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

For both peaks:

Date climbed: 26th September 2022
Route Start / End: Layby opposite to gated entrance to Faseny on Gifford-Longformacus Road
Route Distance: 10.7 km (6.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 251m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: Lammermuir Hills Map | Dalkeith, Bonnyrigg & Gifford | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 345
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)

For our final walk of the weekend we headed to the eastern end of the Lothians for Meikle Says Law. As with Blackhope Scar this involves a short section from the parking area followed by a circular route. We took an anti-clockwise direction on the circular section following a track running parallel to Faseny Water. There’s a few places where the stream crosses the track but we found it easy to jump over without getting wet. It would be a different story after very wet conditions so be prepared to search for other places to cross or make sure that you have good waterproof boots.

Taking the anti-clockwise direction turned out to be a good plan as the track takes you right up to the summit. The Trig Pillar marks the high point of East Lothian. It’s very close to the border with Berwickshire and it’s a 100m walk to the south to bag the high point of that county. There’s nothing to mark the Berwickshire top so we just took a bearing from the gate near the Trig Pillar to the coordinates. It certainly didn’t feel like a summit but there’s was nothing else notable around so we decided to call it there.

From the Berwickshire top we retraced our steps to the Trig Pillar and followed a path on the south side in an easterly direction. The path comes and goes and it’s quite heavy going, but keep to the left of the fence and you’ll be fine. You’ll cross the East Lothian/Berwickshire border a few times on this path but with nothing to mark the boundary.

When you reach a small gate in the fence where another path comes in from the east, you’ll leave the fence, now heading in a north-easterly direction back down to Faseny Water. After crossing the footbridge you’ll have closed the loop and can return to the parking spot on the road.

Driving Distances and Times for the Edinburgh Crescent Road Trip

Based only on connections between the walks. Add more based on accommodation, bonus walks etc. Driving times based on light traffic.

  1. Edinburgh Airport to West Lomond: 32 miles / approx 40 minutes.

  2. West Lomond to Innerdouny Hill: 18 miles / approx 30 minutes.

  3. Innerdouny Hill to Ben Cleugh: 13 miles / approx 30 minutes.

  4. Ben Cleuch to Cairnpapple Hill: 35 miles / approx 60 minutes.

  5. Cairnpapple Hill to Blackhope Scar: 50 miles / approx 90 minutes.

  6. Blackhope Scar to Meikle Says Law: 42 miles / approx 90 minutes.

  7. Meikle Says Law to Edinburgh Airport: 39 miles / approx 60 minutes.

Total drive: 239 miles / approx 6 hours 40 minutes.

Other High Points in the Edinburgh Crescent Area

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, West Lomond, Fife, Kinross-shire, Clackmannanshire, West Lothian, Mid Lothian, East Lothian, Berwickshire, ScotlandComment
The Great Trails of Scotland

The Great Trails are 29 long distance walking routes established by Scotland Natural Heritage. The Great Trails website is the best place for further information on each. I’ve experienced a few of them on various adventures although it’s only the Great Glen Way that I’ve (kind of) completed so far. That was by bike and followed a path either on or close to the trail.

The above map is a collaboration between Michael Jones and myself based on research and an original design by Michael. Let me know via the Contact form if you spot any errors and I’ll donate £1 to one of my causes for any error corrected.

BLOG POSTS FEATURING THE GREAT TRAILS

MORE INFORMATION ON THE GREAT TRAILS

Tube-Style Maps

Richard gowerTrek, Coast, Canal, Great Trails, ScotlandComment
The Scottish County Tops

Compared to England, the Scottish Counties have had few changes over the years. There’s 3 main groupings of Scottish County:

  • Scottish Shires. Historic subdivisions of Scotland established in the Middle Ages and used as administrative divisions until 1975.

  • Historic Counties. Also referred to as Traditional Counties or Former Counties. Established by the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889 and abolished by the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973.

  • Scottish Council Areas. Also referred to as Present Day Counties. Established by the Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994.

This post shows the highest point in each of Scotland’s counties based on the above groupings. As the Venn diagram shows there is a lot of overlap between the different types of county.

Contact me if you spot a mistake on this page or you have new information and I will make a donation to one of my causes.

Scotland’s Historic County Tops

Also referred to as Traditional Counties or Former Counties. Established by the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889 and abolished by the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973. More details on Scotland’s Historic Counties.

The highest points of these Historic Counties are:

  1. Ben Nevis. 1,344 metres. Completed. Historic County = Invernessshire, Present Day County = Highland.

  2. Ben Macdui. 1,309 metres. Historic Counties = Aberdeenshire and Banffshire. Present Day Counties = Aberdeenshire and Moray.

  3. Ben Lawers. 1,214 metres. Completed. Historic County = Perthshire. Present Day County = Perth and Kinross.

  4. Carn Eige. 1,183 metres. Historic County = Ross and Cromarty.

  5. Bidean nam Bian. 1,150 metres. Historic County = Argyll.

  6. Glas Maol. 1,068 metres. Historic County = Angus. Present Day County = Angus.

  7. Ben More Assynt. 998 metres. Historic County = Sutherland.

  8. Ben Lomond. 974 metres. Completed. Historic County = Stirlingshire.

  9. Ben Vorlich. 943 metres. Completed. Historic County = Dunbartonshire.

  10. Goatfell. 874 metres. Completed. Historic County = Buteshire. Present Day County = North Ayrshire.

  11. Merrick. 843 metres. Completed. Historic County = Kirkcudbrightshire. Present Day County = Dumfries and Galloway.

  12. Broad Law. 840 metres. Completed. Historic Counties = Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire. Present Day County = Scottish Borders.

  13. White Coomb. 821 metres. Completed. Historic County = Dumfriesshire.

  14. Kirriereoch Hill-North West Slope. 782 metres. Completed. Historic County = Ayreshire. Present Day County = South Ayrshire.

  15. Mount Battock. 778 metres. Historic County = Kincardineshire.

  16. Culter Fell. 748 metres. Completed. Historic County = Lanarkshire. Present Day County = South Lanarkshire.

  17. Hangingstone Hill. 743 metres. Completed. Historic County = Roxburghshire.

  18. Ben Cleuch. 721 metres. Completed. Historic County = Clackmannanshire. Present Day County = Clackmannanshire.

  19. Carn a'Ghille Chearr. 710 metres. Historic County = Morayshire.

  20. Morven. 706 metres. Historic County = Caithness.

  21. Carn Glas-choire. 659 metres. Historic County = Nairnshire.

  22. Blackhope Scar. 651 metres. Completed. Historic County = Midlothian. Present Day County = Midlothian.

  23. Meikle Says Law. 535 metres. Completed. Historic County = East Lothian. Present Day County = East Lothian.

  24. Meikle Says Law (boundary). 532 metres. Completed. Historic County = Berwickshire.

  25. West Lomond. 522 metres. Completed. Historic County = Fife. Present Day County = Fife.

  26. Hill of Stake. 522 metres. Completed. Historic County = Renfrewshire. Present Day County = Renfrewshire.

  27. Innerdouny Hill. 497 metres. Completed. Historic County = Kinross-shire.

  28. Ward Hill. 481 metres. Historic County = Orkney. Present Day County = Orkney.

  29. Ronas Hill. 450 metres. Historic County = Shetland. Present Day County = Shetland.

  30. Craigairie Fell. 321 metres. Completed. Historic County = Wigtownshire.

  31. Cairnpapple Hill. 312 metres. Completed. Historic County = West Lothian.

Scotland’s Present Day County Tops

Scotland has 32 Unitary Authorities that replaced the 33 County Councils that existed from 1890 to 1975. More details on Present Day counties of Scotland.

The list above shows where a peak is both an Historic and a Present Day County Top. The 14 peaks shown below are distinct from the Historic County Tops.

  1. Ben More. 1,174 metres, Stirling.

  2. Ben Cruachan. 1,132 metres, Argyll and Bute.

  3. An Cliseam / Clisham. 799 metres, Western Isles.

  4. Blackcraig Hill. 700 metres, East Ayrshire.

  5. East Cairn Hill. 567 metres, Edinburgh.

  6. West Cairn Hill. 562 metres, West Lothian.

  7. Cort-ma Law East Top. 527 metres, North Lanarkshire.

  8. Creuch Hill. 441 metres, Inverclyde.

  9. Duncolm. 407 metres, West Dunbartonshire.

  10. Corse Hill. 376 metres, East Renfrewshire.

  11. Darrach Hill. 357 metres, Falkirk.

  12. Brimmond Hill. 265 metres, Aberdeen.

  13. Cathkin Hill. 200 metres, Glasgow.

  14. Gallow Hill. 175 metres, Dundee.

Scottish Counties Prior to 1890 (Shires)

The Shires were historic subdivisions of Scotland established in the Middle Ages and used as administrative divisions until 1975. More details on the Scottish Shires.

The mountains below are the high points of the Scottish Shires that are distinct from either Historic or Present Day County Tops.

  1. Sgurr Mor. Sgurr Mor 1003m, Cromartyshire.
    - Carn Eige is the Historic & Present Day County Top of Ross and Cromarty.

  2. Dun Rig. 774m, Selkirkshire.
    - Broad Law is the Historic County Top of Selkirkshire and the Present Day County Top of Scottish Borders.

  3. Carn nam Bain-tighearna. 634m, Nairnshire
    - Ben Nevis is the County Top of Present-Day Highland

More County Tops

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, ScotlandComment
Scottish Borders County Tops
View to Loch Trool from Bruce’s Stone at the start of the Merrick Trail

View to Loch Trool from Bruce’s Stone at the start of the Merrick Trail

With all of the County Tops in England, Wales and Northern Ireland in the bag, I “just” have Scotland to do. The problem is that they’re now a long way from home and getting taller. Before this trip I’d only done 3 of the 33 Historic County Tops of Scotland. I’d done Ben Nevis a couple of times, Goatfell once and, most recently Hangingstone Hill as an add-on to the Cheviot walk.

The remaining 30 would need to be grouped into longer weekends around natural groupings. With easy access from Glasgow Airport, the 6 summits of this trip was an obvious place to start. Broad Law covers 2 counties each giving a total of 7 historic counties over a 4-day trip.

Craigairie Fell

Significance: Highest peak in Wigtownshire (Historic CT)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Beneraird
Elevation: 321m
Date climbed: 23rd September 2021
Coordinates: 55° 1' 34'' N, 4° 45' 40'' W
Route Start / End: Parking space at end of road west from Polbae (DG8 6RZ)
Route Distance: 7.5 km (4.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 159m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Southern Upland Way
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP2507 - Craigairie Fell
Map: OS Explorer Map (310) Glenluce and Kirkcowan
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Wigtownshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Craigairie Fell was our warm-up peak for the trip. With a total elevation of 321m, it’s a hill rather than a mountain and can be bagged in less than 2 hours. We tackled this one first as we flew into Glasgow in the morning and it was a 2-hour drive to the start of the walk.

There’s a good parking spot about a mile west along the road from Polbae. It’s more of a track than a road so don’t attempt it in a car with low clearance. You’ll notice it soon after the Forestry Commission sign saying “No Unauthorized Vehicle Access”. It’s an odd place to have the sign as it’s on a random part of the road with no place to turn around. The first place to turn further along is a junction with a track to a farm where the obvious parking spot is.

From the parking spot, navigation is very easy as you follow the Southern Upland Way all the way to the Trig Pillar at the top. The actual route is slightly shorter than the one on the map as there’s a short-cut of the Southern Upland Way that cuts off the hairpin bend near the D of Derry on the map.

Although our views from the top were a little misty, it was significantly better than the other summits in the trip with no views at all.

route-36816521-map-full.png
elevation_profile.jpg

Merrick

Significance: Highest peak in Kirkcudbrightshire (Historic CT), Highest peak in Dumfries and Galloway (Present Day CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Corbett, Donald
Parent Peak: Helvellyn (NHN = Goatfell)
Elevation: 843m
Coordinates: 55° 8' 21'' N, 4° 28' 6'' W
OS Trig Pillar: TP4777 - Merrick
Links: Wikipedia Kirkcudbrightshire), Wikipedia (Dumfries and Galloway), Wikipedia (Merrick), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Kirriereoch Hill-Northwest Slope

Significance: Highest peak in Ayrshire (Historic CT), Highest peak in South Ayrshire (Present Day CT)
Member of: N/A
Parent Peak: Kirriereoch Hill
Elevation: 782m
Coordinates: 55° 9' 11'' N, 4° 28' 53'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Ayrshire), Wikipedia (South Ayrshire), Wikipedia (Kirrieroch Hill), Peakbagger, Hillbagger

For both peaks:
Date climbed: 24th September 2021
Route Start / End: Upper Bruce's Stone Car Park, Newton Stewart, DG8 6SU
Route Distance: 16.7 km (10.4 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 1,114m
Subsidiary tops on route: Benyellary (719m), Kirriereoch Hill (786m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Merrick Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 7 passes through Upper Bruce’s Stone Car Park
Map: OS Explorer Map (318) Galloway Forest Park North
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)

After an overnight in nearby Newton Stewart we tackled the big climb of the trip. Merrick is the highest point in the Historic County of Kirkcudbrightshire, the Present-Day County of Dumfries and Galloway and both the highest peak in the Southern Uplands and Southern Scotland.

The Merrick Trail is a well marked path leading from Upper Bruce’s Stone Car Park to the summit. Before you start the walk, take 10 minutes to see the carved granite stone that commemorates victory over an English army during the Scottish Wars of Independence in 1307.

On a clear, warm day this would have been a wonderful walk. From the summit you can see Snowdon, 144 miles away on the longest line of sight in the British Isles. This wasn’t the day to see anything. After the bothy and the forest section, the mist turned to cloud and we only saw what was 10m in front of us. By the time we reached the Trig Pillar at the summit there was also strong wind and rain. This would have been a great time to turn back and head down to a warmer, clearer elevation.

There was no turning back though as we still had another County Top to visit. The high point of Ayrshire is just beyond the summit of Kirriereoch Hill approximately 2km from the summit of Merrick. We relied on the GPX track as the path was hard to make out in the fog. Kirriereoch Hill’s summit is well marked by a pile of stones. From here, the County Top of Ayrshire is 100m to the north just beyond the remains of an old stone wall. The map on my phone showed the county boundary about 20m beyond the wall. Although it wasn’t completely clear exactly where the County Top was, we at least stopped by several possibilities.

From Kirriereoch Hill, the path continues north to a series of other summits. We had already got what we came for and turned back to re-trace our steps back over Merrick and down to the Bruce’s Stone. With the big one done, we drove 2 hours north-east to Strathaven, our overnight stop before the next set of peaks.

elevation_profile (1).jpg

Culter Fell

Significance: Highest peak in Lanarkshire (Historic CT), Highest peak in South Lanarkshire(Present Day CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Graham, Donald
Parent Peak: Broad Law
Elevation: 748m
Date climbed: 25th September 2021
Coordinates: 55° 32' 46'' N, 3° 30' 10'' W
Route Start / End: Layby on right hand side of minor road south of Culter Allers Farm
Route Distance: 7.1 km (4.4 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 484m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP2681 - Culter Fell
Map: OS Explorer Map 336 Biggar and Broughton
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Lanarkshire), Wikipedia (South Lanarkshire), Wikipedia (Culter Fell), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Culter Fell was our first of 3 peaks, covering 4 counties, located close together to the north-east of Moffat. It’s possible to do all three on a single day with an early start and enough light. It was a Saturday and we also needed to get in a parkrun, so we did a combination of Lanark Moor parkrun, with Culter Fell and Broad Law.

There’s enough parking for several cars on a large layby near Culter Allers Farm. From here you can follow the road south, crossing over Culter Water stream. You’re now on private land which is open to walkers but occasionally closed for shooting. You can call 01899 204010 to check access or to request permission for groups of over 4.

Approximately 1km from the layby leave the road and follow a track, then a path, ascending to the south-east. The path to the Trig Pillar at the summit is well marked and difficult to miss even in low visibility as we had. Options at the summit are to return the same way, as we did, or continue south, then south-west to Coulter Head Reservoir and return back along the road.

route-36816633-map-full.png
elevation_profile.jpg

Broad Law

Significance: Highest peak in Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Corbett, Donald
Parent Peak: Merrick
Elevation: 840m
Date climbed: 25th September 2021
Coordinates: 55° 29' 53'' N, 3° 21' 10'' W
Route Start / End: Layby next to Megget Stone, Biggar, ML12 6QR
Route Distance: 7.4 km (4.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 372m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
OS Trig Pillar: TP1647 - Broad Law
Map: OS Explorer Map 330 Moffat and St Mary's Loch
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Peeblesshire), Wikipedia (Selkirkshire), Wikipedia (Broad Law), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Looking back on our Broad Law walk a week after we did it, it’s hard to distinguish it from our Culter Fell walk. With a similar distance, elevation change and exactly the same thick fog, both have blurred into one. With better visibility I’m sure the view from Broad Law would have been impressive given its height, just 3m lower than Merrick. We couldn’t even see the large air navigation beacon close to the Trig Pillar on the summit.

Navigation is very easy as the path follows the boundary fence all the way from the road to the summit. The fence is low at the top making it very easy to cross the border to make sure you’ve bagged both of the County Tops on this peak.

White Coomb, our next peak is less than 9km as the crow flies from the Broad Law summit or a 30 minute drive between each parking spot. We’d had enough adventure for one day so came back the following day for the final peak of the trip.

Note that Dun Rig is another contender for the Historic County Top of the former county of Selkirkshire. See the reference to this in the Wikipedia article for Broad Law for details. Although I might return to bag that one later for completeness, I’m happy to claim Selkirkshire for now based on following the list in Jonny Muir’s UK County Tops book.

route-36816705-map-full.png
elevation_profile (1).jpg

White Coomb

Significance: Highest peak in Dumfriesshire (Historic CT)
Member of: Marilyn, Corbett, Donald
Parent Peak: Broad Law
Elevation: 821m
Date climbed: 26th September 2021
Coordinates: 55° 25' 21'' N, 3° 19' 25'' W
Route Start / End: National Trust for Scotland Car Park, Grey Mare's Tail Nature Reserve, Moffat Water Valley, DG10 9LP
Route Distance: 6.3 km (3.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 575m
Subsidiary tops on route: None
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Map: OS Explorer Map 330 Moffat and St Mary's Loch
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir)
Links: Wikipedia (Dumfriesshire), Wikipedia (White Coomb), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

route-37614329-map-full.png

The walk to White Coomb starts at the busy National Trust Car Park at Grey Mare’s Tail. From here the steep path to the right hand side of Tail Burn stream takes most walkers up to Loch Skeen. Follow this for 1.25km to the top of the waterfall where you can cross the stream via some stepping stones. You’ll see a faint path leading down to the stepping stones and the stone dyke wall on the other side. Once crossed, follow the well marked path to the right of the wall to the flat grassy top of White Coomb. You’ll need to leave the path and cross the dyke for the final 20m to the summit which is marked by a pile of stones.

A return option from the summit would be to return to the path and continue on it in a clockwise direction around the loch then back to the car park. With only a few hours until our flight back from Glasgow we returned by the same route, completing the walk within 2 hours.

Other High Points in the Scottish Borders Area

Other High Point in the Historic County of Lanarkshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Wigtownshire, Ayrshire, Kirkcudbrightshire, Lanarkshire, Peeblesshire, Selkirkshire, Dumfriesshire, ScotlandComment
County Top Parent Peaks

In my ever-deepening County-Top related geekery I decided that I needed to document the Parent Peaks of every UK County Top. Many are easily findable with a bit of Googling, others are harder to come by. I’ve used the following sources in priority order:

  • Hillbagging (the online version of the Database of British and Irish Hills)

  • Peakbagger: if the Parent Peak is shown there but not in Hillbagging

  • Wikipedia: If the Parent Peak is shown there but not in either Hillbagging or Peakbagger

  • Peakbagger’s Nearest Highest Neighbour (NHN) field if a Parent Peak is not listed in the above.

Some are disputed and others I’ve had to assume, so here’s my best attempt. Contact me or comment below if you have any corrections and I’ll happily make a donation to one of my causes.

England’s County Top Parent Peaks

Scotland’s County Tops Parent Peaks

Compared to England there’s a lot fewer Parent Peaks listed in my key sources, so the following is largely based on Nearest Higher Neighbours and some assumptions. Likely there will be a lot of corrections to be below.

Wales’ County Tops Parent Peaks

Similar to Scotland, there’s a lot fewer Parent Peaks listed in my key sources, so the following is largely based on Nearest Higher Neighbours and some assumptions. Likely there will be a lot of corrections to be below.

Coming soon: Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland County Top Parent Peaks

UK County Tops on Islands

  • Goat Fell (843m), Arran, Buteshire, Scotland

  • Ward Hill (481m), Hoy, Orkney, Scotland

  • Ronas Hill (450m), Mainland, Shetland

  • Holyhead Mountain (220m), Anglesey, Wales

“A peak’s line parent is the closest higher peak on the highest ridge leading away from the peak’s “key col”. A col is the lowest point on the ridge between two summits and is roughly synonymous with pass, gap, saddle and notch. The highest col of a peak is its key col. If there is more than one ridge which can be followed to a higher peak then the line parent is the peak closest to the key col. Usually, a line parent must meet some prominence criteria, which might vary depending on the author and the location of the peak.”
— https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_parent
Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Country High Points, Trig Pillar, England, Scotland, WalesComment
North-East England County Tops
View from Burnhope Seat summit to the Trig Pillar

View from Burnhope Seat summit to the Trig Pillar

We had the dates for this in the diary for most of the year, even before Covid-19 became the thing that defined 2020. When the Lockdown came in March we we glad we had booked it in for later in the year and had assumed that the virus would have blown over by then. By mid-Summer things were relaxing and it was looking like there wouldn’t be a problem for the trip at all. September came, cases started rising again and the North-East was right in the centre of a local Lockdown. The rules were especially ambiguous and it was only the day before the trip that we decided that we would still be able to go. So, without breaking any rules and keeping as safe as possible, 3 of us headed North to complete the North-East County Tops.

As it turned out Covid had a very minimal impact on the plan. Our YHA for the first 2 nights was in Northumberland and had strict procedures. Rather than sharing one big room as per our usual trips, we had to have a room each under separate bookings. Breakfast was strictly one person per table, but given my lack of interest in talking to anyone 1st thing in the morning, it wasn’t a major inconvenience. Other than that we were out in the hills all day and the rare instances of coming in contact with others were few and far between and at quite a distance.

Being able to complete these 3, and by extension my completion of all of England’s County Tops, was a major win for me for 2020. Most other plans had been cancelled or postponed until 2021, so keeping this felt like a big achievement.

Burnhope Seat

Significance: Highest peak in County Durham (Historic CT)
Member of: Hewitt, Marilyn, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Cross Fell. NHN = Meldon Fell
Elevation: 747m
Date climbed: October 1st 2020
Coordinates: 54.7331° N, 2.3369° W
Route Start / End: 2-car layby on B6277 north of kink in road over stream bridge, south of Yad Moss ski area
Route Distance: 3.1 km (1.9 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 160m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: none
OS Trig Pillar: TP1783 - Burnhope Seat
Map: OS Explorer Map (307) Consett and Derwent Reservoir
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (County Durham), Wikipedia (Burnhope Seat), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Burnhope Seat and Mickle Fell are a short car journey apart and can be easily done in a single day with fair weather. We had a long drive from the south which took up much of our first day so we used this short walk as a break in the journey.

Jonny Muir’s County Top guide suggests a parking space on the B6277 at NY 7754 3640 but we found a more convenient one a bit further north on the same road. The layby in the book is quite small and at a steep angle from the road so we gave it a miss. From the larger layby near the stream bridge you can cross over a wooden gate on the opposite side. From here follow the left hand side of the stream, passing the ruins of an old building and use the GPS to keep you on-track for the high point. From the un-marked summit you can see the Trig Pillar to the east along the fence.

The Cheviot

Significance: Highest peak in Northumberland (Historic CT) and Northumberland National Park
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Broad Law. NHN = Dollar Law
Elevation: 815m
Date climbed: October 2nd 2020
Coordinates: 55°28′42″N 2°08′44″W 
OS Trig Pillar: TP2152 - Cheviot
Links Wikipedia (Northumberland), Wikipedia (The Cheviot), Wikipedia (Northumberland National Park), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Hangingstone Hill

Also Known As: Cairn Hill West Top
Significance: Highest peak in Roxburghshire, Scotland (Historic CT)
Member of: n/a
Parent Peak: Cairn Hill. NHN = The Cheviot
Elevation: 743m
Date climbed: October 2nd 2020
Coordinates: 55° 28' 3'' N, 2° 9' 59'' W
Links: Wikipedia (Roxburghshire), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Route Start / End: parking area off small road to Langleeford, accessed from A697 via Middleton Hall
Route Distance: 15.3 km (9.5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 620m
Subsidiary tops on route: Scald Hill (548m), Cairn Hill (777m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): The Pennine Way
Other routes touched (cycle): none
Map: OS Explorer OL16 The Cheviot Hills, Jedburgh & Wooler
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)

This walk was the longest and most rewarding of the 3 especially as it's a circuit rather than an out-and-back like the others. If you’re using Jonny Muir’s guide this is a combination of the separate routes for The Cheviot and for Hangingstone Hill. It’s pretty obvious to do them both in the same walk so I’ve got no idea why they’re separated in the book. Both use the same start and end point and each trip is a return for the other.

We took an anti-clockwise approach taking in The Cheviot first via Scald Hill. Continuing south-west along the Pennine Way from The Cheviot you’ll soon get to the summit of Cairn Hill. From here there’s a short out-and-back section to the Scottish border to reach Hangingstone Hill (aka Cairn HIll West Top). There’s little to see here and bagging the top just involves a quick crossing of the gate to a slightly higher piece of moss.

From Hangingstone Hill retrace your steps back up to Cairn Hill summit and follow the path sign-posted to Windy Gale. After a short steep section keeping a fence to your right you’ll reach a footpath junction. Take the east (left) path signed to Langleeford Hope (2¼) and Langleeford (3½). This path will take you all the way back to the start following Harthope Burn (stream).

Mickle Fell

Significance: Highest peak in Yorkshire (Historic CT) and the historic North Riding of Yorkshire
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Cross Fell. NHN = Knock Fell
Elevation: 788m
Date climbed: October 3rd 2020
Coordinates: 54°36′48″N 2°18′18″W
Route Start / End: Parking spot on B6276 to west of cattle grid between the Cumbria and County Durham county signs.
Route Distance: 17.2 km (10.7 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 505m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: none
OS Trig Pillar: TP4789 - Mickle Fell
Map: OS Explorer OL19 Howgill Fells Upper Eden Valley Map
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Yorkshire), Wikipedia (North Riding of Yorkshire), Wikipedia (Mickle Fell) / Peakbagger, Hillbagging

Mickle Fell is on a military firing range which is only open to the public on a few select days per year. You can apply for a permit to access the land from MOD Warcop. Based on our experience I recommend starting the application process early. It took over 3 months for me to get the permit from sending the application letter. There’s nothing complicated about the process, it’s just slow. With the permit secured the other thing that you need to do is call the control room number on the permit as you start the walk and again when you finish. We didn’t have phone signal at all on the walk so we were glad to have made the call in the car 10 minutes before arriving at the parking space.

The parking space is easy to find as it’s right next to the Welcome to Cumbria sign. From here cross the road and over a wire fence to access the hill. Strangely there’s no gate or stile even though this is the recommended approach. You can see where others have climbed through or over the fence though.

Much of the walk is very easy to navigate, even on a low-visibility day like we had. Follow the boundary fence, keeping it to your left all the way up to the summit plateau. A lot of the route is boggy underfoot and you’ll need to navigate around streams, loose peat and marsh-land. We were there on an especially wet day and it was all we could do to keep our feet dry.

There’s a steep climb up to the summit plateau where you’ll cross a fence via a stile and can pick up some Land Rover tracks. Keep to these heading on an easterly curve and they’ll lead you to the summit cairn and the Trig Pillar.

We were there on one of the wettest days possible. If the route was closer to home and we didn’t need a permit we might have delayed it for another day, but we had little option but to press on. The only other person we met on the approach had reached the summit but hadn’t bothered with the extra ~2km to the Trig Pillar. I could see how tempting it would have been on a day like that to have missed it. Given our Trig-obsession we weren’t going to miss it though and took the extra hour to bag the pillar.

The descent was much quicker as we had abandoned any attempt to avoid the wet marsh and mostly walked straight through it. At 5.5 hours of driving rain we arrived at the car as wet as if we had swum to the summit. It was challenging but it also meant that I had now completed all County Tops in England, Wales and Northern Ireland.

Now for the rest of Scotland…

OTHER HIGH POINTS IN County Durham

OTHER HIGH POINTS IN Northumberland

  • Westerhope (131m) North Tyneside Unitary Authority High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

  • Camperdown (86m) North Tyneside Unitary Authority High Point: Peakbagger / Hillbagging

OTHER HIGH POINT IN Yorkshire

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Northumberland, National Park, County Durham, Roxburghshire, Yorkshire, England, ScotlandComment
100 OS Trig Pillars

A Christmas Day walk in Swinley Forest, Bracknell was the event of my 100th bagged OS Trig Pillar. There was a bit of a debate, mostly with myself, about which Trig would count as my 100th. I’ve only logged pillars that I could either touch or get within a few metres of, not ones that I could only see from a distance. Of those some were listed as “remains” and have been replaced by new monuments. So, my 100th was:

UK Historic County Tops with differently named Trig Pillars

Trig Pillars near parkruns

Trig must be within 2,5km (half a parkrun) of the start line of the event.

Richard gowerTrek, Trig Pillar, England, Scotland, Wales, Chilterns, South Downs, MountainComment
parkrun Alphabet Challenge

After 291 parkruns, including 154 different locations, I’ve finally cracked the Alphabet challenge. This is the Holy Grail for parkrun obsessives, especially those in the parkrun Tourist community. I’d heard about it since I started parkrun 6 years ago, but with a lot fewer events at the time it was really hard. By the time I’d done 100 different events, I’d ticked off 21 letters without any targeted Alphabet bagging. All that remained were I, J, Y and Z. As there’s no X anywhere in the world, it doesn’t count (yet).

With 4 left to go I was now on a mission. At the time there were only 2 "I" parkruns in the country: Inverness and Ipswich. I very nearly did Inverness on our LEJOG adventure but decided against a run that day as we had 105 miles to cycle. A parkrun would have added an extra 5 miles and have delayed our cycle for 2 hours. It wasn’t going to happen. By the time I was planning my trip to Ipswich, a new event called Isabel Trail popped up in Stafford and I pounced on that one.

A weekend trip to Jersey bagged me the J and I got the island’s Half Marathon in on the same weekend. If I’d waited a year I could have used the new Jersey Farm event for my J and avoided a flight. I’m glad I did it though. It gave us a great weekend away and also contributed to my Channel Islands Regionnaire. Y was a relatively easy one. I had the choice of York and Yeovil Montacute. I chose the latter as we were visiting friends in Somerset so Yeovil was a short drive from there.

Then there was Z. Scroll down for the end of the story ……

Alphabeteer Bar Chart.JPG

Events by Letter

Note that Yeovil Montacute has been permanently cancelled. It was one of the events that didn’t come out of the other side of the Covid pause. York and Yarborough Leisure Centre are now the UK’s 2 Ys

Zamek w Malborku

This was my second attempt at completing my Alphabet at Malbork. The first try was at the end of August. My parkrun mates and I had been trying to find a mutually convenient date all year. It looked like it wasn’t going to happen but then we found a date that would work as long as we were back by Saturday night before the wives had noticed we were missing.

Shortly before the weekend came I had to make a last minute work trip to New Jersey. I had booked an overnight flight back to London to land at 10:00 on Friday morning. This would give me 3 hours before Neil would need to pick me up for our drive to Luton for the Wizz Air flight to Gdańsk.

After a nightmare trip out to New Jersey I decided that I needed a bit of extra contingency. I paid an extra £300 to get the earlier flight back which would give me another 3 hours. That was plenty of time to make the afternoon flight. What could go wrong?

Lots as it turned out. The combination of a broken plane, a storm and general ineptitude by United meant I was trapped in Newark Airport for 27 hours. I finally landed at Heathrow 23 hours late at 06:30 on Saturday morning. I’d long since missed my opportunity to get to Poland. The faint silver lining was that I didn’t have to miss parkrun altogether. I was still able to get home, get changed and get to Bedford to complete my Bedfordshire County collection.

Seeing how annoyed I was about missing my Malbork trip, Timea (wife) offered to come with me on my second attempt. This was a big deal as she has a general disinterest in running except that it gives her an extra few hours sleep on a Saturday. The following few weeks were a mixture of fighting with United for compensation and planning the return trip.

I’d lost faith in things going to plan after a Summer of flight delays and cancellations. I was checking the parkrun website every day for the 2 weeks leading up to it to make sure it wasn’t cancelled. As it happened all went to plan. The flight was on time, none of the usual nonsense from the rental car company and the hotel was just what we needed.

There were 43 parkrunners there that morning. 11 were locals and 32 were Brits like me who had flown over for the event. Any town with a park that begins with a Z (and definitely those with an X) will do very well from tourist income.

The run itself was great: a simple out and back course along the River Nogat next to the Castle. Once I was finished I popped back to the hotel to walk up the wife, have a quick shower then back to the castle for breakfast. The castle is also a UNESCO World Heritage site so it also gave me a tick on that list too.

There's a few options for a Z in Poland, and several in other countries too. Zamek w Malbork is a really great option for a relatively easy trip from the UK and plenty of other things to do for a weekend away.

 

More parkrun posts

parkruns are free, weekly, community 5k events all around the world. I started in December 2012 and have been obsessive about it ever since. See my parkrun Collection page for details.

Featured and popular parkrun posts:

Richard gowerRun, parkrun, Poland, England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland, USA Comments
Goatfell: Buteshire County Top
WRGX1887.jpg

Significance: Highest peak in Buteshire (Historic CT), North Ayrshire (Council Top)
Member of: Corbett, Marilyn, Hardy
Parent Peak: N/A
Elevation: 874m
Date climbed: 11th and 12th August 2017
Coordinates: 55.6258° N, 5.1919° W
Route Start / End: out and back from Cladach car park
Route Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 829m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Arran Coastal Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 73
OS Trig Pillar: TP3393 - Goat Fell
Map: OS Explorer 361: Isle of Arran
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking on Arran (Cicerone Walking Guide)
Links: Wikipedia (Buteshire), Wikipedia (Arran), Wikipedia (Goat Fell), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

My first time on Arran was 2 years ago on our Lands End to John O'Groats cycle trip. We took the scenic route across the island and over to Kyntire to avoid Glasgow. The island part was only 15 miles but it made that day one of the most memorable. As we skirted past Goatfell, the huge County Top of Buteshire, I knew I'd be back to walk it.

This trip was for our 7th wedding anniversary. With our Inca Trail trip less than a month away, a Goatfell climb was good training. Timi needed to test her both her fitness and her new gear. If she could do Goatfell 2 days running it would be a good sign that we were ready for the Inca's distance and elevation.

The 2 days we picked couldn't have been more different. The first was an overcast, rainy Friday. We didn't see anyone for the first hour and only 10 people the whole trip. Neither could we see the mountain for most of the day. The clouds hung low, revealing the peak once or twice. As we got closer to the summit, most people were coming down not having braved the final steep ascent.

Our plan for day 1 wasn't to reach the top. We wanted to test our waterproofs and get some good descent practice in. Timi has suffered with her knee on steep down-hills in the past. If she was fine now, it would solve our main concern for the Inca Trail. We took it steady and reached the top in under 3 hours. The rain had stopped but the summit was windy so we headed down after a few minutes. Timi's knee held out well and we completed the trip in 5.5 hours.

Day 2 showed us a completely different Goatfell. The sun was out and visibility was as good as I've seen on UK hills. People were out too, with at least 10x more on the route than the day before. The view from the summit was one of the most stunning I've seen. We saw the coast on all sides of the mountain, the mainland back to the east and the Mull of Kyntire to the west.

We finished the day with a beer at the Arran Brewery at the start of the trail, then a walk in the beach opposite. As a training mission, it was a big success. Next stop: Peru.

elevation_profile - Goatfell.jpg

Bonus walk: King’s Cave

Before our ferry trip home we tried the King’s Cave Walk, recommended as one of the top walks on the island. It's a short one at 3 miles / ~2 hours and covers some beautiful views of the west of the island. The cave itself is somewhat underwhelming, but don’t let that put you off as its a great walk even without the cave.

Richard gowerTrek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Buteshire, Island High Points, ScotlandComment
Cycling from Land's End To John O'Groats
DSC00540.jpg

The Land’s End To John O’Groats (LEJOG) cycle trip had been on my back burner for a very long time. It started 21 years ago when I was planning my Queen’s Scout Award. The Award was similar to the Duke Of Edinburgh Award and required a big expedition. I chose to do a cycling trip and needed to find a route greater than the 200 mile minimum requirement. Andrew, my expedition partner, and I briefly considered LEJOG but the distance was way more than required and, at the time, seemed like a bit too much effort. Maidenhead, our hometown, to Lands End at 350 miles was more like it.

1993: Maidenhead to Land's End

That summer was amazing. The years have probably erased all memories of the tough spots and any bad weather, so all I remember now is endless sunny days and pleasant glides through the South-West countryside. We cycled 60 miles a day, stayed in Youth Hostels and survived on Diet Coke and White Chocolate Magnum ice-creams. The 6 day trip to Land’s End was my first big adventure and it definitely wasn't going to be the last. Ever since then the full Land’s End To John O’Groats trip was something I had to do ... just not right now.

Right after that trip I started working for Mars and the next few years was all about work and socialising. 4 years living abroad was a whole different adventure in itself and the LEJOG idea sunk into the very back of my mind. It was only in my mid-30s that I started to get back into the outdoors in a big way. After the Kilimanjaro trek in 2013 I started planning my next big trip and the LEJOG idea started to bubble up again. Two more things then happened to bring it right to the front. The first was turning 40 and thoughts around finishing off things that I wanted to do. The second was planning the Growlerthon, my fundraising year in memory of my dad who was diagnosed with lung cancer shortly after Kili. Back burner no more .... I had to do LEJOG.

Putting the team together was relatively easy. Slobby did the trip 2 years before and was up for doing it again. Brian, my Kili buddy, was also an easy “yes”. Brian recruited the rest of the team: Martyn and Ray, both from our office and both with different personal charity and fitness goals, and Reggie, Brian's brother. By early January we had the team together and the next few months was all about training and route planning.

We had all heard of different routes, from the 41 hours record to a very sedate month-long LEJOG pub crawl. 2 weeks seemed the most obvious duration as it was about as much time as we could get off work and the 75 mile average day was very manageable. This plan meant we could stay off the busy A roads as much as possible and get as much scenery in as possible. By the time we all met up in Penzance the evening before the start, we had reached a peak of excitement. We had done all we could to prepare, train and fundraise. Now all we had to do was cycle.

We took Day 1 easy, just 35 miles to Falmouth. A little hilly, but nothing to complain about and a good dose of coastal route scenery. It was the next 2 days, Falmouth to Exford, that were the real test. Most people assume that Scotland is the toughest section for hills, but its actually Devon and Cornwall. This is part of the reason to start at Lands-End so that you can knock off the coastal hills while your legs are fresh. This would have been fine, except that I was still getting used to my new road-bike and I still wasn’t used to the gears. There were several points on the first few days when I thought I’d broken my bike by changing to the wrong gear at the wrong time up a hill.

By Day 4 we’d got into a flow, having got used to being together as a team and perfecting the routine of every day on the road. Each day we would get up at around 7:30, have breakfast, kit-up and tackle the first 15 to 20 miles. Then would come morning break, usually coffee and carrot cake, followed by another 20 miles before lunch. The afternoons were similar: 20 miles, then coffee and cake and the final push through to wherever we were staying that evening. We even got the evenings down to a fine art with some of us sorting out payment for the hostel, some sorting out clothes washing whilst the others showered.

Whilst a lot of the process of doing the trip became routine, the adventure was in the route itself. England, Wales and Scotland unfolded before us, showing us some of the best parts of the countryside. Towards the end of the trip we about our favourite parts but there were too many to bring it down to a short-list. Often we would post on Facebook about that day having been the best of the trip, only for the next day to be just a enjoyable or even better. My video of the highlights is probably the best way to explain how amazing the trip was.

One special moment for me was the evening in Wick, our final overnight stop after our longest day at 105 miles. We were less than 2 cycling hours from John O’Groats so there was already a feeling of celebration. We’d already been spared punctures or major injuries so getting to the end was inevitable, even if we had to walk. Wick really has a sense of being at the end of the country. It was fairly bleak, even in summer, and we wondered what people did there. Over a few pints a a curry we talked about the hilly South-West from 2 weeks ago, the exhilarating downhill rides into Exford, the Strawberry Line to Bristol, crossing the Severn Bridge, The Wye Valley, the ferry across the Mersey, the Lake District, Gretna, Arran, the Great Glenn and the Scottish coast. All very different experiences and even more special to have been able to join them up in one self-powered adventure.

After all of that, the final was a bit of an anti-climax. From Wick, we only had 17 miles to go, normally the distance till our first carrot cake stop. This 17 miles contained the most rain we'd had apart from the Lake District. John O’Groats quickly came and we were greeted by Martyn's family and friends who had followed us since Arran. The next part was ultra efficient, disassembling and boxing up the bikes, driving to Inverness airport and boarding the plane to Gatwick. After 2 weeks of being very present and fully focused on the trip, suddenly it was all over. I’d had a nice sense of completion for the adventure that I'd had in my mind for 21 years, but it didn't feel like an end, more the inspiration for something new. From John O’Groats, there's 2 ways to go, North by boat to Orkney or carry on West to Dunnet Head, the mainland’s most northerly point, then the wild Scottish coast. I'm sure I'll be back for both, but a lot sooner than 21 years.

Day 1: Land’s End to Falmouth

Date: July 6th 2015
Start: Land’s End Visitors Centre, Sennen, Penzance TR19 7AA
Finish: Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Distance: 60.4 km (37.5 miles)
Elevation change: +757m / - 798 m / Net -41m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path

Day 2: Falmouth to Tintagel

Date: July 7th 2015
Start: Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Finish: YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Distance: 88.8 km (55.2 miles)
Elevation Change: +1,333m / - 1,289 m / Net +44m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3, 32
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path

Day 3: Tintagel to Exford

Date: July 8th 2015
Start: YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Finish: Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead TA24 7PU
Distance: 118.6 km (73.7 miles)
Elevation change: : +1,641m / - 1,457 m / Net -184m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 27, 277, 3, 33
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path, Tarka Trail, Macmillan Way West, Two Moors Way, Exe Valley Way

Day 4: Exford to Bristol

Date: July 9th 2015
Start: Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead, TA24 7PU
Finish: YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Distance: 122 km (76 miles)
Elevation change: : +875m / - 1,120 m / Net -245m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 26 (The Strawberry Line), 3, 33, 334, 41, 410
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Exe Valley Way, Coleridge Way, Macmillan Way West, River Parrett Trail, The Mendip Trail, West Mendip Way, Round Yatton Walk, River Avon Trail,

route-31000079-map-full.png

Day 5: Bristol to Hereford

Date: July 10th 2015
Start: YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Finish: East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Distance: 84 km (52.2 miles)
Elevation change: +1,047m / - 1,007 m / Net +40m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 4, 41, 410, 42, 423, 46,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Bristol Triangular City Walk, Severn Way, Wales Coast Path, Wye Valley Walk, Offa’s Dyke Path, Gloucestershire Way, Herefordshire Trail,

Day 6: Hereford to Chester

Date: July 11th 2015
Start: East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Finish: Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Distance: 149.4 km (92.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,035m / - 1,066 m / Net -31m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 44, 45, 455, 81,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Herefordshire Trail, Shropshire Way, Jack Mytton Way, Severn Way, Llangolen Canal Towpath, Maelor Way, Marches Way, Baker Way, Two Saints Way, Shropshire Union Canal Towpath,

Day 7: Chester to Morecambe

Date: July 12th 2015
Start: Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Finish: The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Distance: 122.9 km (76.4 miles)
Elevation change: +627m / - 642 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 56, 568, 6, 62, 622, 69, 810,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Shropshire Union Canal Towpath, Longster Trail, North Cheshire Way, Ribble Way, Lancaster Canal Towpath,

Day 8: Morecambe to Carlisle

Date: July 13th 2015
Start: The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Finish: YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Distance: 123.2 km (76.5 miles)
Elevation change: +1,172m / - 1,161 m / Net +11m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 6, 69, 7, 70, 71, 700
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Lancashire Coastal Way, Cumbria Coastal Way, Coast To Coast Walk, Cumbria Way,

Day 9: Carlisle to New Cumnock

Date: July 14th 2015
Start: YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Finish: Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Distance: 126.5 km (78.6 miles)
Elevation change: +921m / - 707 m / Net -214m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 7, 72
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Hadrian’s Wall Path, Annandale Way, Southern Upland Way,

Day 10: New Cumnock to Lochgilphead

Date: July 15th 2015
Start: Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Finish: Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Distance: 131.8 km (81.9 miles)
Elevation change: +1,213m / -1,437 m / Net -224m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 7, 73, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): River Ayr Way, New Town Trail, Arran Coastal Way, Kyntire Way

elevation_profile Day 10C.jpg

Day 11: Lochgilphead to Fort William

Date: July 16th 2015
Start: Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Finish: Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Elevation change: 135.6 km (84.3 miles)
Ascent: +1,554m / -1,535 m / Net -19m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Great Glen Way, West Highland Way

Day 12: Fort William to Inverness

Date: July 17th 2015
Start: Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Finish: Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Elevation change: 107.9 km (67 miles)
Ascent: +1,197m / -1,206 m / Net -9m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1, 7, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): West Highland Way, East Highland Way, Great Glen Way

Day 13: Inverness to Wick

Date: July 18th 2015
Start: Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Finish: Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Distance: 167.1 km (103.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,471m / - 1,486 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none

Day 14: Wick to John O’ Groats

Date: July 19th 2015
Start: Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Finish: John O’ Groats Visitors Centre, John O' Groats, Wick KW1 4YR
Distance: 27.6 km (17.1 miles)
Elevation change: +203m / - 213 m / Net -10m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none

Richard gowerCycle, NCN, Canal, Disused Railway, England, Wales, Scotland, Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Gloucestershire, Monmouthshire, Herefordshire, Shropshire, Cheshire, Lancashire, Westmorland, Cumberland, Dumfriesshire, Ayrshire, Bute, Argyll, Inverness-shire, Ross-shire, Sutherland, CaithnessComment
Ben Nevis: Inverness-shire County Top
View from the Pony Track

View from the Pony Track

Also known as: Beinn Nibheis
Significance: Highest peak in Inverness-shire (Historic CT), Highland (Council Top), Mainland Great Britain/Scotland/UK Country Top.
Member of: Munro, Marilyn
Parent Peak: N/A. NHN = Melderskin, Norway
Elevation: 1,344m
Date climbed: 21st May 2005 and July 28th 2012
Coordinates: 56.7969° N, 5.0036° W
Route Start / End: Ben Nevis Inn, Achintee Rd, Achintee, Fort William, PH33 6TE
Route Distance: 15.5 km (9.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 1,306m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: none
OS Trig Pillar: TP1289 - Ben Nevis
Map: OS Explorer 392: Ben Nevis and Fort William
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Cicerone Guide: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
Links: Wikipedia (Inverness-shire), Wikipedia (Ben Nevis), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

I’ve completed two ascents of the UK’s tallest mountain. Both were on unofficial self-organised Three Peaks Challenges. We weren’t bothered by doing it in the normal 24 hour window, so did it in a more leisurely 36 hours. This allows for an overnight stay and removes the need for a support driver.

On my first attempt we completed the challenge in a whisker under the 36 hours. We stayed in Fort William on the night before, did Ben Nevis in the morning, lunch in the Ben Nevis Inn, and drove to a hotel near Scafell Pike. On the second day we did an early ascent of Scafell Pike, then drove to Snowdonia for the Snowdon ascent.

My second Three Peaks attempt, with a different group, didn’t go quite so well. We ended up doing four peaks, but not the ones that we intended. I’ll save that story for the Scafell Pike post.

Unless you’re particularly adventurous and very experienced there’s one route up and down a Ben Nevis: The Pony Track. It’s a safe route with little navigation required. On both of my ascents the visibility at the top was extremely poor and the return from the summit to the track wasn’t obvious. Yes, it’s a relatively easy climb but don’t beget caught out and do all the usual mountain prep and precautions.

Richard gowerUK County Tops, Mountain, Trek, Scotland, Inverness-shire, Trig Pillar, Country High Points, Island High PointsComment
The Rob Roy Challenge

Glen Ogle Viaduct (official event photo)

The Rob Roy Challenge was a run/bike event along the Rob Roy Way between Drymen and Kenmore in Scotland. I completed it with a group of friends in 2012 as a new challenge, having done several London to Paris cycle rides together. I’m writing this 10 years later so my memory of the details is a little hazy. However, from the many photos that we took it seemed like we had a lot of fun on a very cloudy and drizzly day. So far it’s the only mixed run/cycle event that I’ve done although I’m keen to do more.

Note that my Garmin didn’t save the GPX track so I had to recreate the route on RideWithGPS. The actual distances and elevations may have been slightly different to what I have below.

Section 1: The Run

Start: Drymen Road Cottage Car Park, 4 miles north of Drymen on the Rob Roy Way
Finish: Wheels Cycling Centre, Invertrossachs Road, Callander, FK17 8HW
Distance: 23.6 km (14.6 miles)
Elevation change: +338m / -363m (Net -25m)
Section finish time: 2 hours 55 minutes
Other routes touched (walk): Rob Roy Way, Mary Queen of Scots Way, Coilhallan Wood Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 7, EV1

Section 2: The Cycle

Start: Wheels Cycling Centre, Invertrossachs Road, Callander, FK17 8HW
Finish: Field on the south side of Loch Tay, west of Kenmore
Distance: 64.4 km (40 miles)
Elevation change: +827m / -756m (Net -71m)
Section finish time: 5 hours 23 minutes
Other routes touched (walk): Rob Roy Way, Coilhallan Wood Trail, Great Trossachs Path, Three Saints Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 7, EV1

Total Route

Date completed: 23rd June 2012
Distance: 88.5 km (55 miles)
Elevation change: + 1,201m / -1,156m (Net +45m)
Finish time: 8 hours 18 minutes
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Links: Rob Roy Way, Drymen, Aberfoyle, Callander, Balquhidder, Killin, Kenmore

Richard gowerRun, Cycle, NCN, Disused Railway, Great Trails, Perthshire, Stirlingshire, ScotlandComment